FoodNet

Buckmaster's cookery

1887

Page 29

Presented as published in 1887. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
There are four methods of preserving meat. The first is known as the freezing process ; the second, and most general, is the tinning process ; the third , the concentrated meat process ; the fourth, the antiseptic, or curing process. The freezing process consists in preserving the meat m ice, or in a freezing atmosphere. The idea is to bring the meat fresh from America and Australia in ice-houses, but the experiment has not proved so successful, as was anticipated. The tinning process has been in operation for years, and is the one generally in use. Tins are filled with meat; a 4-lb. tin contains 4 lbs. 4 oz. of raw meat without bone ; after the meat is placed in the tin the top is soldered on, and a small hole left in the centre. The tins are now placed on a gridiron in a bath of salt :and water, called the chloride of calcium bath ; the 66 Buckmaster s Cookery. bath is first raised to a temperature of 220°, then to 230°, then to 260°, and the time occupied is about three hours : this is a temperature of 48 degrees hotter than boiling water, which is said to be necessary to remove all the air and life germs ; every little cell containing air and water is broken -up, and the steam and air escape at the small hole, which is suddenly closed with the soldering iron. The tins are put aside to cool, when the external pressure of the atmosphere often forces the tops into a battered shape and makes them concave. You will understand from this process why preserved meats lose much of their flavour. The steam issuing from the tin may be condensed, wljen it is found to be nothing but water with a slight flavour of the meat. The osmazone upon which the flavour of the meat depends has been separated by the boiling, and while the flavour of the meat is injured, the flavour of the jelly is increased, and we can have this flavour in the soup. If science is to do anything for cooking, there ought to be some method of restoring this flavour of meat, much in the same way as a manufacturer of scents prepares from a few substances the perfumes of new-mown hay, violets, jasmine, and other flowers, without any of them being used in the manufacture. Du Broussin, a celebrated gourmand, used to say, if my cook were not able to prepare any kind of fish to eat like partridges or woodcocks, then he has not learnt the true art of cookery. Another method of preserving meat has been pro- posed, known as the antiseptic process , which consists in the use of sulphurous acid and other chemicals. Tinned Meats. 67 The object is to prevent the decomposition of fresh meat by excluding the oxygen of the air. This pro- cess has met with little success, and the meat so preserved tastes strongly of the chemicals, nor is the process a very reliable one.