The "Queen" cookery books: Entrees

It is evident that the flavour imparted by these two sauces must differ considerably, and on the cook’s capacity for realising this difference will depend the success of her sauce. When extravagance took the place of gourmetterie, espagnole came to be used as the only foundation sauce, till Gouffe, realising the unsuitability of the highly spiced espagnole, quietly ignored its history and set up the brown sauce given above under the name of espagnole. One more hint before giving particular sauces ; this is with regard to Sauces de Reduction (literally reduced sauces), i.e., sauces whose consistency is due to their boiling-in whilst making. Perhaps the using of the word “thickening” in place of the French roux has strengthened the fallacy that the substance of a sauce depends on the greater or less quantity of roux used for it. To a certain extent this is of course true, but no sauce is really properly made which owes its substance simply to its thickening ; a sauce never obtains its full flavour till the qualities of its ingredients are condensed by this boiling-in process. From the plain brown sauce we derive Sauce au Beurre d-AncTiois. Boil together a pint of good brown sauce, a bunch of herbs, and a gill of strong brown stock, and let it reduce till the sauce clings to, and slightly coats, the spoon with which you stir it ; then skim well, sieve if necessary, and leave it in the bain-marie till wanted. When to be served stir into it at the last moment an ounce or more of anchovy butter, and serve at once. Sauce Bretonne is made exactly like the Sauce Soubise previously given, only using good brown sauce instead of the veloute there mentioned. This sauce is also called Sauce Claremont. Sauce aux Champignons. — Boil 4oz. or so of nicely wiped and broken up mushrooms in half a pint of good brown sauce for a few minutes, stirring it well, and serve as it is, plain or sieved, seasoning it to taste with lemon juice, salt, and cayenne, adding a tiny piece of butter just as you lift it from the fire. This is excellent for cutlets, fillets of beef, &c., and should be of the consistency of a thickish puree. Chutney Sauce. — For this boil together for a minute or two two tablespoonfuls each of hot and sweet chutney, four tablespoonfuls of good brown sauce, a small teaspoonful of made or French mustard, a full tablespoonful of tomato pulp, and a good spoonful of very strong stock, or a little of Liebig's extract of meat; season to taste and serve. Sauce Crapaudine. — This is most excellent with any kind of broiled or fried bird. Stew 4oz. of freshly grated white breadcrumbs in 6oz. of butter or clarified dripping, till lightly coloured to a nice brown, then pour off the fat, moisten the bread with half a pint of good brown sauce (ready for use), add a teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, a dash of coralline pepper, and the juice of a small lemon ; let it boil up once or twice and serve as it is. Curry Sauce. — Blend together a couple of ounces of good roux and about an ounce of curry powder, then moisten it with a pint of thin, well flavoured brown sauce, stir it over the fire till it