The "Queen" cookery books: Entrees

bain-marie, adding at the last a spoonful of whipped cream. A variation of this is made by stirring about a tablespoonful of grated cheese into the mixture, which is then known abroad as Creme Soubise au fromage. Both these sauces should be very white, but there is a form of onion puree in which the onions, when stewed, are allowed to colour, and are mixed with veloute sauce, being in consequence almost a light fawn colour, which is often known in England as Sauce Soubise, though its real name is Sauce Bretonne. This, again, is also sometimes mixed with well-made tomato puree in the proportion of two parts onion to one part tomato, and is an excellent accompaniment to either beef or mutton. Of Sauce Supreme we have already spoken, so the only remark about it need be that as it is one of the choicest in the whole list of French sauces, it should never be attempted unless the cook is prepared to use the most delicate stock, the freshest butter, and the richest of cream, and to give her closest attention to its manufacture. The same remarks as have been made with reference to veloute and bechamel apply quite as forcibly to brown and espagnole sauces. For the first the roux brun must be slowly and carefully prepared; the flour used for it being free from all mustiness or staleness, and above all, be perfectly dry ; whilst the butter used, if the very best fresh cannot be afforded, should be good and well washed salt butter ; whilst the stock must be strong, delicately seasoned, and well flavoured with vegetables. In all cases, it is better to give this vegetable flavouring by means of the stock ; but many delicate sauces are absolutely ruined by the crude tastes of raw vegetables added at the last, after the sauce is practically made, to give the requisite characteristic. Where wine is required, though vintage wines need not be employed, good sound liquor, however light, is indispensable, and is, moreover, easily procured by those who care to look for it. Corked, soured, or stale wine is absolute destruction; sour, coarse stock is distinctly unwholesome ; whilst roux made of inferior flour and bad butter can never be anything but disagreeable, and if stale from over-keeping is pretty sure to be indigestible. Roughly speaking, brown sauce is simply melted butter made with well-flavoured brown stock, but espagnole is somewhat differently prepared: Fry together a carrot, turnip, two or three green onions, a tomato or two, and some mushrooms if handy, all sliced or roughly chopped, a bunch of herbs, and a good slice of lean smoked ham, in butter or clarified dripping till nicely coloured (a very tiny pinch of caster sugar sprinkled over all this is declared by many chefs to improve both the appearance and the flavour of the subsequent sauce) ; then moisten it either with rich brown stock, or good brown sauce (in the former case when boiled up it must be blended with a spoonful or two of the brown roux ) and boil it up sharply till reduced a fourth part ; now tammy or sieve it, adding a little sherry or Madeira, lemon juice, and seasoning to taste, let it just boil up and as you pour it into the scalded-out sauce boat, add a small piece of butter, which should dissolve on its way to the dining-room.