The housekeeper's guide to preserved meats, fruits, vegetables, &c

The whole can now be eaten together ; the combined flavour of anchovies, the olive, the mayonnaise sauce, and the crisp piece of fried bread is exceedingly agreeable. Stoned olives are also used in cooking for a variety of purposes. A few stoned olives are also added to any kind of salmi of game. Salmi of game, I may here remind you, is usually made from the remains of game that has been served roasted the previous day. The best part of the game is cut off, and the bones are broken and stewed down in a little rich brown gravy, so as to impregnate it with the flavour of the game, great care being taken that the delicious inside part of the back of the game, which contains the chief flavour, is all put into the gravy. When the bones have become thoroughly bare and dry take them out and rub the gravy through a wire sieve to get it smooth. Warm up the meat which was cut off in the gravy, to which may be added a small quantity of madeira or sherry just before serving, and half a dozen or more stoned olives. Stoned olives are often added to what may be called in- ferior kinds of small vol-aux-vcnts. In many restaurants in London vol-aux- vcnts d la Francaisc will appear on the bill of fare. Those who wish to know what this really is can turn to the head- ing, Financiekk Ragout, but they will often find in cheap London restaurants the dish served as follows : — A case of very light pastry, containing some small pieces of veal, liam, or chicken, a few Ill HOUSEKEEPER'S GUIDE. mushrooms, and throe or four stoned olives, warmed up in a little so-called bechamel sauce, but which is really, I think, little more than stock thickened with butter and flour. This dish may be very palatable, but of course it is not vol-au-vent cl la Financi&re. Another form of olives is that known as olives farcies. These can now be obtained in bottles ready made. Olives farcies are really olives which have been stoned and the insides filled with small quanti- ties of filleted anchovy and chopped capers. These are preserved in brine, and are sold in bottles ready for use. These olives are sometimes used in cooking. M. Erancatelli, in his well- known book, entitled “ The Modem Cook,” gives a receipt for scallops of mutton with olives farcies. He recom- mends the scallops to be prepared in the ordinary manner, and when they have been fried and the grease poured off, two dozen olives farcies should be added, as well as two large gravyspoon- fuls of espagnole sauce, a little cayenne, lemon juice, and a small piece of glaze. These should be tossed all together and allowed to simmer gently on the stove for two or three minutes, and then should be served.