FoodNet

The housekeeper's guide to preserved meats, fruits, vegetables, &c

1880

Page 154

Presented as published in 1880. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
boiled or fried, is in England accom- panied by some form of melted butter, and of all the infinite number of sauces which have been invented there are very few indeed that can compare with plain anchovy sauce or simple mush- room catsup. All lovers of good cheer, had they to choose between the alter- native of doing away with these two sauces or all others put together, would never hesitate to accept an- chovy sauce and mushroom catsup. In many parts of the country where mushrooms are obtained, mushroom catsup is often home-made. When the cook is a judge of the difference between wholesome and unwholesome mush- rooms, of course home-made catsup is very excellent ; but, like many other things, catsup is far best when made in large quantities. The greatest care is exercised by experienced experts in gathering mushrooms, and as the catsup is, of course, made in enormous quantities, it possesses the advantages which are always to be obtained from skilled labour coupled with per- fect machinery. Many housekeepers are fond of trying experiments in the way of sauces. Mushroom catsup forms the basis, as I have said, of nearly every other kind of sauce. Those who are fond of a variety of sauces would do well to obtain first of all say a quart bottle of mushroom catsup, and then to exercise their fancy in transforming it into any other kind of sauce they may like. For instance, a very nice sauce can be made by stewing some pieces of garlic in a little catsup, adding to this some pulp of fresh tomatoes and some cayenne pepper. So, too, any trimmings that may be obtained from truffles can bb powdered and added to the mushroom catsup with a little cayenne pepper. A very delicious sauce indeed can be made by obtaining a tin of what are known as truffle chips, which now are imported from abroad. Some of these can be pounded in a mortar to a paste ; then add to this some mushroom catsup, cayenne, tomato pulp, etc., and an exceedingly rich and delicious sauce is made. This sauce can be put in a bottle and carefully corked down, the bottle being filled as full as possible, and the cork sealing-waxed over the top. Housekeepers should always be very careful to cork the bottle well down after the catsup has been used, otherwise after a short time a few white specks of mildew will appear on the surface. In such a case the cook has no one to blame but herself, as this is simply owing to its being imperfectly corked. The cook would also do well, when sho has a bottle of catsup in use, to occasionally shake the bottle when she goes to the cupboard for any other purpose. By this means it will be pre- served from turning bad. Various kinds of white stock that have been made from good stock- and cream, such as bechamel, will bear the addition sometimes of a small quantity of mush- room catsup. Only a small quantity should be added, as, of course, it has a tendency to render the whole sauce a bad colour.