The Pytchley book of refined cookery and bills of fare

Clarets are warmed in different ways by different people. I have seen it plunged into hot water with tiie cork in ; I have seen it arranged by dozens in a bachelor’s room so as to be ready warmed in case of sudden thirst ; and this reminds me of a story poor Whyte Melville used to tell, that on calling one day on his way home from hunting on a gallant officer hunting with the Pytchley, he saw a dozen of Claret warming before the fire, when he remarked, “Got a dinner party?” “Oh, no, only the Colonel and myself.” Others put it before the fire and then into a cold decanter, and the sudden change from hot to cold chills and quite spoils the wine. I know no wine so difficult to produce at a right temperature, and I am quite convinced that the only way to produce all bottles alike is to put the decanters and claret in a temperature of 60 degrees for ten hours before dinner and decant each bottle when it is wanted, observing most carefully the rules laid down for decanting. I have heard that when old Claret has been moved it does not recover itself until after the second flowering of the grape ; that is, if it is moved in August it takes two years to recover, and I really think this is true. I remember perfectly a friend of mine buying some Claret in Paris, and he thought he had been swindled as it tasted so different after having rested six months ; but he kept some for two years, and it quite regained its excellence. 1 also remember having heard that a certain connoisseur had a closet made, warmed to a temperature of 60 degrees, on purpose for his Claret, and each decanter was encased in flannel so as to retain the heat, and he had a silver thermometer to try each 262 THE PYTCHLEY COOKERY BOOK. bottle. This may seem ridiculous, but I really think if you take the trouble to lay down wine for twenty years, no trouble can be too great to produce it in its best state at the table. HOCK. Decant most carefully all fine old Hock an hour before it is required ; warming does not improve it ; in fact, when good, it is meat and drink. If any one drinks “ Steinberg Cabinet,” of a good vintage, once , it is a wine never for- gotten, but it is very expensive and dificidt to get. Light Hock, however, such as Nierstein, is a very nice clean wine for dinner, and a glass or two of Geisenheim after dinner won’t hurt you in the summer. PORT. Decant most carefully. This wine requires no heat if the cellar is warm. I think it should be decanted just before dinner. I never can tell why this excellent wine is gone out of fashion. No black wine has such flavour, and, if good, it is quite as wholesome as Claret. Our forefathers lived as long, drank more, and of this very wine, port ; and nowadays, you see a poor weakly-looking “ masher ” say he “cannot drink port,” when probably a bottle of old’58 a day, and fevuer il cigarettes,” would make a man of him. SHERRY. Decant carefully old Sherry, and open it the day before it is required, leave the decanter without a stopper or cork in, and you will find this method brings out and docs not destroy the flavour. INDEX PAGE TAGE Allemande Sauce 108 Artichokes, Jerusalem, Boiled 194 Anchovy Butter hi „ „ in Batter 194 33 Eclair of 243 „ „ Chips ... 194 33 Eggs and 249 „ „ Puree of 132 33 Sauce 109 Asparagus, Boiled 195 33 Toast 243 „ Cold 195 Apple Compote of 222 „ Pure'e of 132