The Pytchley book of refined cookery and bills of fare

No ; unless you have a careful and trustworthy servant, decant your own wine, and by the above method, and you will find that your bottles will be, with very few exceptions, all alike. I remember hearing a story of a noble lord, well known for his unadorned Saxon, complaining to his old house steward that he always sent up the Claret thick. I he steward replied that he always sent up the whole bottle, as if he had not, he thought his lordship would complain. The reply he received was, “ In future, then, don't send up the whole bottle, you fool ! ” The order was strictly obeyed, and only three parts of a bottle in future appeared, but his friends always said that the “ fool,” as he was so politely called, kept back the two jirst and not the two last glasses for his own consumption. 26o THE PYTCHLEY COOKERY BOOK. ON PRODUCING VARIOUS WINES TO THE TABLE. BURGUNDY. Decant as in Rules for Decanting-, and in the winter put it on the chimney-piece in the dining-room six hours before dinner; in the summer in the room. Burgundy should not be warmed as much as Claret. Notch the cork aP round and put in the decanter, so that it shall admit air, but not enough to make it flat. Burgundy is a wine far too seldom seen on English tables, especially as a dinner wine ; it has more flavour, more nourishment, and is cheaper than the corresponding vintages of Claret. For instance, Pommard, to lay down, is 50.y. a dozen, and this wine is about the “ Leoville” of Clarets ; Chambertin, the Lafitte of Burgundy, can be bought at the same reduction in price. If the Claret flavour is preferred, Romanee Conti and Clos Vougeot more resemble this wine, but if you drink “ Burgundy ” drink “ Burgundy ” say I, and I recommend Pommard and Chambertin. CHAMPAGNE. Of all wines, Champagne is the easiest to produce in a proper condition to the table, although opinions may differ as to the extent it should be iced. All old Champagne if iced, should be laid on the ice with the greatest care so as not to shake the bottle, and be decanted as in the directions for decanting wine. In the opinion of some connoisseurs, very old and fine Champagne should not be iced at all in the winter, and only slightly in the summer, but the general taste is, no doubt, that all Champagne should be well iced ; on the other hand the greatest number of Champagne drinkers do not drink old and fine Champagne. As a general rule, then, I will put it thus : Decant and ice moderately all Champagnes over ten years in bottle, as there is frequently a strong deposit in old Champagnes, especially in “Still.” Ice moderately all good Champagne under ten years in bottle, WINES AND THEIR SERVICE. 261 and although it is not necessary to decant it, I personally think it is improved thereby ; but I should certainly say if the Champagne is moderate, do not decant it, and ice it as much as possible, the fizz and the ice may disguise the taste — I won’t call it flavour. CLARET.