Brussels must have been a gayer city than the Brussels of to-day when it earned the title of ua little Paris.” There is at the present time very little indeed of Paris about the Belgian capital, and, in the matter of restaurants, there is a marked contrast between the two cities. Here the latter-day Lucullus will have to seek in queer nooks and out-of-the-way corners to discover the best kitchens and the cellars where the wines are of the finest crus. The aris- tocracy of Belgium mostly dines en famille , and the restaurants that cater for the middle classes are the most patronised. There are, however, several estab- lishments which provide for more refined tastes, but they will not be found upon the big boulevards or the main thoroughfares. Four of the best restaurants in Brussels are in two narrow little streets, and their exteriors resemble old-fashioned London coffee-houses, rather than resorts of fashion. Brussels is particularly destitute of smart rooms where one can sup in gay company “after the opera is over.” Until the Savoy was opened, we had, in fact, nothing beyond the ordinary restaurant with its little cabinets particuliers. When Mr. Arthur Collins of Drury Lane was in Brussels a few years ago, he asked me to take him 152 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe one evening, after leaving the Scala, to the local Romano’s. “We haven’t such a place,” I explained, “ but we can go to the Helder.” “ I dined there this evening,” said A. C. ; “ it was a very good dinner, but deadly dull ; show me something livelier.” We resolved to try the Filet de Sole, thinking, as it was close to the Palais d’Ete, we were certain to meet some people there, but the place was empty. The fact is, Brussels at that time had little night-life beyond the taverns and bars of low character, but we now have three high-class supper-rooms in the Cafe de Paris, the Savoy, and the Grand Hotel Grill-room, which has a separate entrance in the Rue Gretry. If a stranger came to Brussels, and wanted to be shown the best restaurants, I should start him with lunch at the Savoy, dine him at the Helder or Filet de Bceuf, and finish him off with supper at the Cafe de Paris. The grill at the Savoy is excellent, and by no means dear. 1 franc 75 centimes is charged for a chop or steak, including pommes de terre well served. The hors d'ceuvre are a specialty at luncheon. There is great variety, and the pickled shrimps would tickle the most jaded appetite. The Savoy is situated in the Rue de l’Eveque, by the side of the General Post Office. It was originally Savoy, Rue de a kind of offshoot from the American l’EvSque bar and grill-room of the Grand Hotel. Being done in good spirit and with good taste, it soon acquired favour, and at certain times in the day the premises are almost too small. There are private dining-rooms upstairs, and a restaurant on the first floor has lately been added. Everything is a la carte . The plats froids are a specialty at the Savoy, and are remarkably well served there. Lanson pere et fils is the champagne that seems to be the drink of the house. The Brussels restaurant en vogue at the moment of Brussels 153

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Brussels must have been a gayer city than the Brussels of to-day when it earned the title of ua little Paris.” There is at the present time very little indeed of Paris about the Belgian capital, and, in the matter of restaurants, there is a marked contrast between the two cities. Here the latter-day Lucullus will have to seek in queer nooks and out-of-the-way corners to discover the best kitchens and the cellars where the wines are of the finest crus. The aristocracy of Belgium mostly dines en famille , and the restaurants that cater for the middle classes are the most patronised. There are, however, several establishments which provide for more refined tastes, but they will not be found upon the big boulevards or the main thoroughfares. Four of the best restaurants in Brussels are in two narrow little streets, and their exteriors resemble old-fashioned London coffee-houses, rather than resorts of fashion. Brussels is particularly destitute of smart rooms where one can sup in gay company “after the opera is over.” Until the Savoy was opened, we had, in fact, nothing beyond the ordinary restaurant with its little cabinets particuliers. When Mr. Arthur Collins of Drury Lane was in Brussels a few years ago, he asked me to take him 152 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe one evening, after leaving the Scala, to the local Romano’s. “We haven’t such a place,” I explained, “ but we can go to the Helder.” “ I dined there this evening,” said A. C. ; “ it was a very good dinner, but deadly dull ; show me something livelier.” We resolved to try the Filet de Sole, thinking, as it was close to the Palais d’Ete, we were certain to meet some people there, but the place was empty. The fact is, Brussels at that time had little night-life beyond the taverns and bars of low character, but we now have three high-class supper-rooms in the Cafe de Paris, the Savoy, and the Grand Hotel Grill-room, which has a separate entrance in the Rue Gretry. If a stranger came to Brussels, and wanted to be shown the best restaurants, I should start him with lunch at the Savoy, dine him at the Helder or Filet de Boeuf, and finish him off with supper at the Cafe de Paris. The grill at the Savoy is excellent, and by no means dear. 1 franc 75 centimes is charged for a chop or steak, including pommes de terre well served. The hors d'ceuvre are a specialty at luncheon. There is great variety, and the pickled shrimps would tickle the most jaded appetite. The Savoy is situated in the Rue de l'Eveque, by the side of the General Post Office. It was originally a kind of offshoot from the American bar and grill-room of the Grand Hotel.. Being done in good spirit and with good taste, it soon acquired favour, and at certain times in the day the premises are almost too small. There are private dining-rooms upstairs, and a restaurant on the first floor has lately been added. Everything is a la carte . The plats froids are a specialty at the Savoy, and are remarkably well served there. Lanson pere et fils is the champagne that seems to be the drink of the house. The Brussels restaurant en vogue at the moment of Brussels 153

The gourmet's guide to Europe