FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 69

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Monte Carlo and its heat, and the cook is a very good one. Any mad Englishman who like myself takes long French Provincial Fowns 123 walks in the morning, will find the restaurant at the La Turbie terminus of the mountain La Turbie railway a pleasant place at which to eat early breakfast ; and the view from the terrace, where one munches one’s %petit pain and drinks one’s coffee and milk, with an orange tree on either side of the table, is a superb one. After the tables are closed ‘the big room at the Cafe de Paris in Monte Carlo fills up with those who require supper or a “ nightcap ” before going home ; and though a sprinkling of ladies may be seen there, the half-world much preponderates. The night birds continue the evening at the Carlton, where the lights are not put out until the small hours, and see daylight at the Austria. Monte Carlo Clubs The Sporting Club, which was established to save the gamblers who went over to Nice to play baccarat the fatigue of a train journey, is the club of the principality. Some golf links, 2000 feet above the sea, have been made at Mont Agel. AFTER DINNER The directors of the great Monte Carlo industry — that of winning the money of gamblers — do not en- courage their guests to stray too far away from the gaming tables. The concerts in the Casino theatre and the performances of opera are world-renowned, but it is often not easy for ordinary visitors to obtain tickets for seats during the opera season. There are comediettas and operettas at the little glass palace in the Casino gardens, but they are usually performed of an afternoon. A new theatre on the Condatnine, for 124 Gourmets Guide to Europe the benefit of the people of Monaco, is amongst the proposed improvements which are to come from the profits of the tables. Mentone Mentone has splendid tea-shops at Rumpelmayer’s and Eckenberg’s. A pleasant restaurant at which to The Winter lunch is that of the Winter Palace, and Palace the Belle Vue has been improved by a new dining-room. Many people drive from Monte Carlo to lunch or take tea at the Cap Martin Hotel, and it is a pleasant place with a splendid view from the great terrace. Another favourite restaurant at the end of a drive is the Restaurant des Rochers Rouges, just across the Italian frontier. Mentone has at last obtained its much - needed Casino, containing all that is necessary to make it a success, on the ground of the Chateau du Louvre. Mentone has its club, to which the subscription is ioo francs for the season, or 25 francs a month. It has also its golf club. The Pyrenees As a gastronomic guide to the Pyrenees I cannot do better than introduce to you my very good friend C. P., who knows that part of the' world as well as any native, and whose taste is unimpeachable. I therefore stand down and let him speak for himself : — Throughout the Pyrenees, in nine hotels out of ten, you can obtain a decently cooked luncheon or dinner — neither above nor below the average. But in order to depart from the beaten track of the ordinary menu, abandon all hypocrisy, oh, intelligent traveller ! and do not pretend that you can turn a French ^Provincial Fowns 125