FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 68

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The Hermitage, in which MM. Benoit and Fourault are interested, has quite the most beautiful The Hermitage dining-room in Monte Carlo. It has a clientele which is just as lavish as the diners at Ciro’s and the Paris. Indeed one may frequently see the most wealthy people of three con- tinents dining at neighbouring tables in the beautiful Hermitage dining-room. Other people collect stamps and butterflies, the proprietors of the Hermitage have a fad of collecting multi-millionaires. The following I 2 I French Provincial Fowns is a dinner for five people at the Hermitage, the cost of which was ioo francs a head : — Hors d’ oeuvre. Caviar d’Astrakan. Petite Marmite Henri IV. Langouste Thermidor. Supremes de volaille Gismonda. Perdreaux Souwaroff. Coeurs de Laitues. Asperges d’Argenteuil — See. Mousseline. Souffle Hermitage. Glace Armenonville. Panier de Friandises. Fruits. VlNS. Chateau Margaux 1875. Moet Brut 1884. Grande fine Champagne des Tuileries. The Sporting Club and the Palais du Soleil both have restaurants, and both are con- The Sporting- trolled by the Blanc-Fleury interest. Club M. Schipper, from the Cafe de Paris, is this year the manager of the Sporting Club restaurant, and has revived the glories of Roumanian cookery there. There are other restaurants not so expensive as the ones I have written of, and further up the hill, which can give one a most admirable dinner. The Helder The Helder is one of the restaurants where the men who have to live all their winters at Monte Carlo often breakfast and dine ; and Aubanel’s Restaurant, at the top of the gardens, the Princess’, which one of the great stars of the Opera has very regularly patronised, The Prmcess deserves a special good word. The Restaurant Re, which was originally a fish and oyster u 1 1 - i • ^ J Restaurant Re shop, but which is now a restaurant with fish as its specialty, is also an excellent place for 122 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe men of moderate means. Madame Re learned the art of the kitchen at the Reserve at Marseilles, and she knows as much about the cooking of fish as any woman in the world. When it came to my turn in the interchange of dinners for six to provide a feast, I went to Madame Re and asked her to give me a fish dinner, and to keep it as distinctive as possible of the principality, and she at once saw what I wanted and entered into the spirit of it. She met me on the evening of the feast with a sorrowful expression on her handsome face, for she had sent a fisherman out very early in the morning into the bay to catch some of the little sea hedgehogs which were to form one course, but he had come back empty-handed. The menu stood as under, and we none of us missed the hedgehogs : — Canape de Nonnats. Soupe de poisson Monegasque. Supions en Buisson. Dorade Bonne Femme. Volaille Rotie. Langouste Parisienne. Asperges Vinaigrette. Dessert. The Soupe Monegasque had a reminiscence in it of Bouillabaisse , but it was not too insistent ; the supions were octopi, but delicate little gelatinous fellows, not leathery, as the Italian ones sometimes are ; the dorade was a splendid fish ; and though I fancy the langouste had come from Corsican waters and not from the bay, it was beautifully fresh and a monster of its kind. The Riviera Palace has a restaurant to which many Kiviera Palace Pe°Ple *° biwkfittt, high above