restaurant, opposite to the Church of St. Pierre, the Restaurant Pepin, if my memory serves me rightly, and a Sole Bordeaux to precede it. The p^pin proprietor, M. Chandivert, was very 13 Marche-au- anxious that I should add a Caneton Bois Rouennaise to the feast, but I told him that “ to every town its dish.” He gave me a capital pint of red wine, and impressed on me the fact that he had obtained a gold medal at some exhi- Busch, 1 Rue bition for his andouillettes. Another st- Laurent restaurant celebrated for its tripe is that of Busch, in the Rue St. Laurent. Caen is the town of the charcutiers , and you may see more good cold viands shown in windows, in a walk through its streets, than you will Angleterre, Rue find anywhere else outside a cookery st* Jean exhibition. Caen is an oasis in the midst of the bad cookery of Western Normandy; and the restaurant at the Hotel d’Angleterre and the Restaurant de Madrid are very much above the aver- Madrid, Rue age of the restaurant of a French st- Jean country town. In both restaurants you can dine and breakfast in the shade in the open air, the Madrid having a good garden, the Angleterre a great tent in the courtyard, — a welcome change from the stuffy rooms, full of flies, of most Normandy hotels. I have a most pleasant memory of a Homard Americaine , cooked at the Hotel d’Angleterre, which was the very best lobster I ever ate in my life. The old chef who made the fame of the Angleterre has retired, but his successor is said to show no falling off in the art of preparing a good dinner. I would suggest to the wayfarer to breakfast in the garden of the Madrid and dine at the Angleterre. There is a little restau- rant, A la Tour des Gens d’Armes, on AlaTourdes the left bank of the canal, which is Gens d’Armes much frequented by students, and where an al fresco 86 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe lunch is served at a very small price. The food is good for the money, and there is always a chance of finding some merry gathering there. A note of warning should be sounded as to the cider and vin ordinaire supplied as part of the table d’hote dinners in Caen, and indeed everywhere in Normandy. There is almost invariably good cider to be had and good wine on payment, but the cider and wine usually put on the table rival each other as throat-cutting beverages. Vieux Calvados is an excellent pousse cafe. It reads almost like a fairy tale to be able to recount that the delicious oysters from the coast-villages of Ouistreham and Courseulles can be bought at 50 centimes the dozen, or very little more. Dives The Hotel of Guillaume le Conquerant at Dives is an interesting old house full of curiosities. There is Guillaume le some furniture there which belonged Conquerant to Madame de Sevigne, and the chair used by her when writing some of her letters. The courtyard with its statues, its flowers, and its creepers is quite out of the ordinary. Mons. Remois, its pro- prietor, is a man of great taste, and has personally superintended the restoration of the old house. The 5-franc table d'hbte dinner is quite good of its kind. Cherbourg Cherbourg, the calling-place for Atlantic steamers, is a very likely place for the earnest gourmet to find himself stranded in for a day, and I regret that there is no gastronomic find to report there. A most com- petent authority writes thus to me on the capabilities of the place : —

AI-modernized reading of the original text

restaurant, opposite to the Church of St. Pierre, the Restaurant Pepin, if my memory serves me rightly, and a Sole Bordeaux to precede it. The Pepin proprietor, M. Chandivert, was very 13 Marche-auanxious that I should add a Caneton Bois Rouennaise to the feast, but I told him that “ to every town its dish.” He gave me a capital pint of red wine, and impressed on me the fact that he had obtained a gold medal at some exhi- Busch, Rue bition for his andouillettes. Another st- Laurent restaurant celebrated for its tripe is that of Busch, in the Rue St. Laurent. Caen is the town of the charcutiers , and you may see more good cold viands shown in windows, in a walk through its streets, than you will Angleterre, Rue find anywhere else outside a cookery st* Jean exhibition. Caen is an oasis in the midst of the bad cookery of Western Normandy; and the restaurant at the Hotel d’Angleterre and the Restaurant de Madrid are very much above the aver- Madrid, Rue age of the restaurant of a French st- Jean country town. In both restaurants you can dine and breakfast in the shade in the open air, the Madrid having a good garden, the Angleterre a great tent in the courtyard, — a welcome change from the stuffy rooms, full of flies, of most Normandy hotels. I have a most pleasant memory of a Homard Americaine , cooked at the Hotel d’Angleterre, which was the very best lobster I ever ate in my life. The old chef who made the fame of the Angleterre has retired, but his successor is said to show no falling off in the art of preparing a good dinner. I would suggest to the wayfarer to breakfast in the garden of the Madrid and dine at the Angleterre. There is a little restaurant, A la Tour des Gens d’Armes, on AlaTourdes the left bank of the canal, which is Gens d’Armes much frequented by students, and where an al fresco 86 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe lunch is served at a very small price. The food is good for the money, and there is always a chance of finding some merry gathering there. A note of warning should be sounded as to the cider and vin ordinaire supplied as part of the table d’hote dinners in Caen, and indeed everywhere in Normandy. There is almost invariably good cider to be had and good wine on payment, but the cider and wine usually put on the table rival each other as throat-cutting beverages. Vieux Calvados is an excellent pousse cafe. It reads almost like a fairy tale to be able to recount that the delicious oysters from the coast-villages of Ouistreham and Courseulles can be bought at 50 centimes the dozen, or very little more. Dives The Hotel of Guillaume le Conquerant at Dives is an interesting old house full of curiosities. There is Guillaume le some furniture there which belonged Conquerant to Madame de Sevigne, and the chair used by her when writing some of her letters. The courtyard with its statues, its flowers, and its creepers is quite out of the ordinary. Mons. Remois, its proprietor, is a man of great taste, and has personally superintended the restoration of the old house. The 5-franc table d'hbte dinner is quite good of its kind. Cherbourg Cherbourg, the calling-place for Atlantic steamers, is a very likely place for the earnest gourmet to find himself stranded in for a day, and I regret that there is no gastronomic find to report there. A most competent authority writes thus to me on the capabilities of the place : —

The gourmet's guide to Europe