Horloge, is a very cheap restaurant, where you get
a great deal to eat at dinner for 2 francs, and where
you will find the Choux Farcies and other homely dishes
of Normandy as well as the excellent little cream
cheeses of the country.
AFTER DINNER
At the Theatre Frangais the municipality supplies for
the winter a company to play comedies and operettas.
The Theatre des Arts, on the Quai de la Bourse,
is popular, and there are two Cafe Chantants, the Al-
hambra in the town, and the Folies Bergeres on the
island in the midst of the river. There are concerts
on summer evenings at the Cafe Victor.
Caudebec en Caux
In the quaint little mediaeval townlet of Caudebec
the cookery at the Hotel de la Marine, a good old-
fashioned hotel beloved by artists, is Hotel de la
quite good. The hotel is new in front, Marine
and is old - fashioned and picturesque in its back
regions. Its proprietor is now building a quite new
hotel, the Villa Isabelle, with a good garden before it
and a fine view of the Seine.
Honfleur
Crossing the Seine, one is in the land of cider and
Pont PEveque cheese. At Honfleur you will find
splendid Moules Marinieres and a very
good table d’hote at the old-fashioned Cheval Blanc
Cheval Blanc on the Quai ; and at the Ferme St.
Simeon up on the hill, in beautifully wooded ground,
84 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
there is to be obtained some particularly good spark-
ling cider. Honfleur has a special reputation for its
shrimps and prawns.
Trouville — Deauville
During the Trouville fortnight, when all the world
descends upon Trouville, the various big hotels and
the Casino have more clients than they really can
cater for. At the Roches Noires, or the Paris, one is
likely to be kept waiting for a table, and at the Casino
a harassed waiter thrusts a red mullet before one, when
one has ordered a sole. The moules of Trouville are
supposed to be particularly good, and also the fish.
There are table d'hote meals at the restaurants of the
Helder and De la Plage, the second being the cheaper
of the two, and food is to be obtained at Tortoni’s
and at the Brasserie on the edge of the Promenade des
Planches. But Trouville in the season may be taken
to be exiled Paris in a fever, half as expensive again,
and not half so “well done.” The amusements after
dinner are concentrated at the Casino and a little
music hall, the Eden Casino.
Caen
My experience has been that whether one stays on
a yacht or in a hotel or villa at Trouville one is glad
to motor over to some one of the towns in the district
to eat a meal in quiet, and to escape for an hour or
two from the racecourse and the baccarat-room.
Dives and Caen form the goal of two of the
pleasantest excursions from Trouville.
Tripe j a la mode de Caen may be a homely dish,
but it is not to be despised, and it can be eaten
quite at its best in the town where it was invented.
I have eaten it with great content at a bourgeois
French ^Provincial Towns 85
Page 48
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Horloge, is a very cheap restaurant, where you get a great deal to eat at dinner for 2 francs, and where you will find the Choux Farcies and other homely dishes of Normandy as well as the excellent little cream cheeses of the country.
At the Theatre Français the municipality supplies for the winter a company to play comedies and operettas. The Theatre des Arts, on the Quai de la Bourse, is popular, and there are two Cafe Chantants, the Alhambra in the town, and the Folies Bergeres on the island in the midst of the river. There are concerts on summer evenings at the Cafe Victor.
Caudebec en Caux
In the quaint little mediaeval townlet of Caudebec the cookery at the Hotel de la Marine, a good old-fashioned hotel beloved by artists, is quite good. The hotel is new in front and is old-fashionedd and picturesque in its back regions. Its proprietor is now building a quite new hotel, the Villa Isabelle, with a good garden before it and a fine view of the Seine.
Honfleur
Crossing the Seine, one is in the land of cider and Pont-l'Évêque cheese. At Honfleur you will find splendid Moules Marinieres and a very good table d’hote at the old-fashioned Cheval Blanc on the Quai ; and at the Ferme St. Simeon up on the hill, in beautifully wooded ground,
84 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
there is to be obtained some particularly good sparkling cider. Honfleur has a special reputation for its shrimps and prawns.
Trouville — Deauville
During the Trouville fortnight, when all the world descends upon Trouville, the various big hotels and the Casino have more clients than they really can cater for. At the Roches Noires, or the Paris, one is likely to be kept waiting for a table, and at the Casino a harassed waiter thrusts a red mullet before one, when one has ordered a sole. The moules of Trouville are supposed to be particularly good, and also the fish. There are table d'hote meals at the restaurants of the Helder and De la Plage, the second being the cheaper of the two, and food is to be obtained at Tortoni’s and at the Brasserie on the edge of the Promenade des Planches. But Trouville in the season may be taken to be exiled Paris in a fever, half as expensive again, and not half so “well done.” The amusements after dinner are concentrated at the Casino and a little music hall, the Eden Casino.
Caen
My experience has been that whether one stays on a yacht or in a hotel or villa at Trouville one is glad to motor over to some one of the towns in the district to eat a meal in quiet, and to escape for an hour or two from the racecourse and the baccarat-room. Dives and Caen form the goal of two of the pleasantest excursions from Trouville.
Tripe j a la mode de Caen may be a homely dish, but it is not to be despised, and it can be eaten quite at its best in the town where it was invented. I have eaten it with great content at a bourgeois
French ^Provincial Towns 85