FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 31

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Greeks in the Rue des Ecoles, Turks in the Rue Cadet, and other Orientals, have their own res- taurants in various parts of Paris, mostly across the bridges ; but the man who faces the delicacies of the near East, as served in the West, requires a stomach of the poet’s triple brass. The Cheap Restaurants A word as to the very cheap restaurants of Paris. The Bouillons Duval and the Bouillons Boulant are y arts 5i extremely cheap a la carte establishments, and two francs goes a long way towards obtaining a satisfy- ing meal. Of the many very cheap table d’hote establishments, Philippe’s, on the first floor of a house in the Palais Royal, is a typical Philippe, Palais one. Half-pay officers, authors, and Royal journalists, and a great number of clerks and other men of the pen, patronise Philippe’s. The custom there was for the clients of the establishment to sit at long tables. Directly all the seats at a table were filled the waiters took round the two soups, of which a choice was given, and the dinner commenced. Nowadays small tables have replaced the real table dhote. The charge for lunch is 1 f. 60 c., for dinner 2 f. 10 C. I should say a word for the table dhote breakfasts both at the Grand Hotel and at the Continental. Each is an excellent 5 francs worth. The Restaurants of the Suburbs The Pavilion Henri IV., on the terrace of St. Germain, where every travelling Briton Pavillon Henri and American breakfasts once during IV., St. his summer stay in Paris, is “ run ” by Germain the management of the Champeaux, and one gets very excellent cooking and service in consequence, the prices not being at all exorbitant. One groans, sitting at the little tables on the terraces and looking at the view, to think of the chances some of our hotels near London, with even finer views, throw away through lack of enterprise. The Pavilion Bleu at St. Cloud, at the foot of the terrace slope, and having a fine view of the Seine, is a cheerful little restaurant pavilion Bleu, with good cookery and a capital cellar st- Cloud of wines, M. Moreaux, who is a power in the Belle Vue 52 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe world of restaurants, has, or had, an interest in the restaurant ; he bought many of the bins of fine wine at the sale of the Maison Doree and sent them out to St. Cloud. The wedding parties which patronise the cheaper restaurants in the town are a never-ending source of amusement. The Pavilion de Belle Vue, which has a splendid view over the Seine, is also on the wes- tern side just outside Paris. M. Poullard has acquired this restaurant. The Porte Jaune, on an island in one of the lakes of the Bois de Vincennes, is a merry restaurant. The Porte Jaune, Price® are cheaP> the food is Plain but Bois de sufficiently well-cooked, and its great Vincennes attraction is that breakfasting there on a Sunday or on a holiday one is right away from the tourist’s beaten track, and that one can see the people of Paris enjoying themselves at their ease. Another little cafe restaurant on the island in the Lac de St. Mande in the Bois de Vincennes is also quite an amusing place to visit. At the much-advertised Casino of Enghien-les- Casino, Enghien- Bains there is a restaurant overlooking les-Bains the lake, where the cookery is good,