FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 30

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
and I believe it was there that he invented the com- bination of force-meat and macaroni which he taught the chef of the Maison Doree to make, and which bears his name. The Restaurant Italien has many mirrors and a frieze of Italian landscapes. Great Chianti flasks stand in plated tripods on a shelf, and on the desk, behind which two comfortable ladies in black are enthroned, are two great bowls filled with flowers or bright-tinted foliage. The waiters all wear moustaches. This, until three years ago, was a proof evident that they were not Parisians ; but since the great strike every waiter in Paris may grow a moustache if he wishes to, and many of them have done so. On Monday, at the Restaurant Italien, you will find Lasagne Passticciate as the plat du jour , on Tuesday Osso Buco , on Wednesday Risotto a la Milanaise , on Thursday and Sunday Ravioli and Timbale Milanaise , and on Friday a selection of Italian dishes of fish. The Zabajone , the Italian egg-nogg, which can be drunk either hot or cold, is admirably made at the Res- taurant Italien. Minestrone is the soup of the house. Sansiarto’s is the home of Neapolitan sansiarto, Rue cookery, for Sansiarto came from st- Augustin Naples, and so did his successor Bernasconi, and all the dishes of the south, the Mozarelle in Carozza , the Pizza alia Pizzaiola , and the other plats of that sunny land, are obtainable there. The Posilippo of the house is excellent. The Spanish restaurant which bears the name of Senor Don Jose Roblez Ruiz, in the Rue de Helder, is an excellent restaurant in which to Roblez, 14 Rue study the Spanish cuisine, for the oil de Helder used there is above reproach, and the garlic is not too much insisted on. The restaurant has rooms both on the ground and first floors, and the decorations are brilliantly - coloured pictures of the modern Spanish school. When a pretty lady, her hair D 50 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe piled high after the Andalusian fashion, sits at the little desk, with the plates of oranges and apples before her, and the patchwork of a rich-coloured landscape behind her, she forms quite a perfect study of Spanish life. An old waiter, with the head of a Roman senator and a method of talking French which recalls the hard click of the castanettes, will always advise the novice as to what he should order, and tell him how the dishes of the day, the Guisillio , the Cocido , the Arroz , or the Bacalao , are prepared. Senor Don Jose had a fine cellar of Spanish wines, and Leon, who has succeeded him, sees that both the cookery and the cellar of the house are kept up to the mark. There are several Austrian and Hungarian res- taurants in Paris, the most typical one being that in the Widerman, 5 Rue Hauteville, kept by M. Widerman, Rue Hauteville where floors and walls are of comfortable brown, and seascapes form the decorations. All the appetising snacks the Austrians love — the smoked goose’s breast, the little sausages, the many cold pre- parations of fish — are to be found here ; and the Restaurant cuisine is that of Vienna. The Res- Tcheque, 7 Rue taurant Tcheque, kept by Madame de Port Mahon Husak, in the Rue de Port Mahon, almost opposite to Cerny’s Bar, which has replaced the Cabaret Lyonnais, is celebrated for its Gulyas.