and I believe it was there that he invented the com-
bination of force-meat and macaroni which he taught
the chef of the Maison Doree to make, and which
bears his name. The Restaurant Italien has many
mirrors and a frieze of Italian landscapes. Great
Chianti flasks stand in plated tripods on a shelf, and
on the desk, behind which two comfortable ladies in
black are enthroned, are two great bowls filled with
flowers or bright-tinted foliage. The waiters all wear
moustaches. This, until three years ago, was a proof
evident that they were not Parisians ; but since the great
strike every waiter in Paris may grow a moustache if
he wishes to, and many of them have done so. On
Monday, at the Restaurant Italien, you will find
Lasagne Passticciate as the plat du jour , on Tuesday
Osso Buco , on Wednesday Risotto a la Milanaise , on
Thursday and Sunday Ravioli and Timbale Milanaise ,
and on Friday a selection of Italian dishes of fish.
The Zabajone , the Italian egg-nogg, which can be
drunk either hot or cold, is admirably made at the Res-
taurant Italien. Minestrone is the soup of the house.
Sansiarto’s is the home of Neapolitan sansiarto, Rue
cookery, for Sansiarto came from st- Augustin
Naples, and so did his successor Bernasconi, and all
the dishes of the south, the Mozarelle in Carozza ,
the Pizza alia Pizzaiola , and the other plats of that
sunny land, are obtainable there. The Posilippo of
the house is excellent.
The Spanish restaurant which bears the name of
Senor Don Jose Roblez Ruiz, in the Rue de Helder,
is an excellent restaurant in which to Roblez, 14 Rue
study the Spanish cuisine, for the oil de Helder
used there is above reproach, and the garlic is not too
much insisted on. The restaurant has rooms both
on the ground and first floors, and the decorations
are brilliantly - coloured pictures of the modern
Spanish school. When a pretty lady, her hair
D
50 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
piled high after the Andalusian fashion, sits at the
little desk, with the plates of oranges and apples before
her, and the patchwork of a rich-coloured landscape
behind her, she forms quite a perfect study of Spanish
life. An old waiter, with the head of a Roman
senator and a method of talking French which recalls
the hard click of the castanettes, will always advise
the novice as to what he should order, and tell him
how the dishes of the day, the Guisillio , the Cocido ,
the Arroz , or the Bacalao , are prepared. Senor Don
Jose had a fine cellar of Spanish wines, and Leon,
who has succeeded him, sees that both the cookery
and the cellar of the house are kept up to the mark.
There are several Austrian and Hungarian res-
taurants in Paris, the most typical one being that in the
Widerman, 5 Rue Hauteville, kept by M. Widerman,
Rue Hauteville where floors and walls are of comfortable
brown, and seascapes form the decorations. All the
appetising snacks the Austrians love — the smoked
goose’s breast, the little sausages, the many cold pre-
parations of fish — are to be found here ; and the
Restaurant cuisine is that of Vienna. The Res-
Tcheque, 7 Rue taurant Tcheque, kept by Madame
de Port Mahon Husak, in the Rue de Port Mahon,
almost opposite to Cerny’s Bar, which has replaced
the Cabaret Lyonnais, is celebrated for its Gulyas.
Page 30
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
and I believe it was there that he invented the combination of force-meat and macaroni which he taught the chef of the Maison Doree to make, and which bears his name. The Restaurant Italien has many mirrors and a frieze of Italian landscapes. Great Chianti flasks stand in plated tripods on a shelf, and on the desk, behind which two comfortable ladies in black are enthroned, are two great bowls filled with flowers or bright-tinted foliage. The waiters all wear moustaches. This, until three years ago, was a proof evident that they were not Parisians ; but since the great strike every waiter in Paris may grow a moustache if he wishes to, and many of them have done so. On Monday, at the Restaurant Italien, you will find Lasagne Passticciate as the plat du jour , on Tuesday Osso Buco , on Wednesday Risotto a la Milanaise , on Thursday and Sunday Ravioli and Timbale Milanaise , and on Friday a selection of Italian dishes of fish. The Zabajone , the Italian egg-nogg, which can be drunk either hot or cold, is admirably made at the Restaurant Italien. Minestrone is the soup of the house. Sansiarto's is the home of Neapolitan cookery, for Sansiarto came from Naples, and so did his successor Bernasconi, and all the dishes of the south, the Mozarelle in Carozza , the Pizza alia Pizzaiola , and the other plats of that sunny land, are obtainable there. The Posilippo of the house is excellent.
The Spanish restaurant which bears the name of Senor Don Jose Roblez Ruiz, in the Rue de Helder, is an excellent restaurant in which to Roblez, 14 Rue study the Spanish cuisine, for the oil de Helder used there is above reproach, and the garlic is not too much insisted on. The restaurant has rooms both on the ground and first floors, and the decorations are brilliantly - coloured pictures of the modern Spanish school. When a pretty lady, her hair
D
50 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
piled high after the Andalusian fashion, sits at the little desk, with the plates of oranges and apples before her, and the patchwork of a rich-coloured landscape behind her, she forms quite a perfect study of Spanish life. An old waiter, with the head of a Roman senator and a method of talking French which recalls the hard click of the castanettes, will always advise the novice as to what he should order, and tell him how the dishes of the day, the Guisillo , the Cocido , the Arroz , or the Bacalao , are prepared. Senor Don Jose had a fine cellar of Spanish wines, and Leon, who has succeeded him, sees that both the cookery and the cellar of the house are kept up to the mark.
There are several Austrian and Hungarian restaurants in Paris, the most typical one being that in the Widerman, 5 Rue Hauteville, kept by M. Widerman, Rue Hauteville where floors and walls are of comfortable brown, and seascapes form the decorations. All the appetising snacks the Austrians love — the smoked goose’s breast, the little sausages, the many cold preparations of fish — are to be found here ; and the Restaurant cuisine is that of Vienna. The Res- Tcheque, 7 Rue taurant Tcheque, kept by Madame de Port Mahon Husak, in the Rue de Port Mahon, almost opposite to Cerny’s Bar, which has replaced the Cabaret Lyonnais, is celebrated for its Gulyas.