The gourmet's guide to Europe

At Marienlyst, which is near Elsinore, there is an hotel semi-oriental in appearance with arched veran- The Casino, dahs and a wealth of creepers. A casino, Marienlyst a restaurant, and two score of cottages form part of the bathing establishment. What I have written concerning the food and the views at Skodsborg and Klampenborg holds good for Marienlyst. In the casino grounds is Hamlet’s grave, which is a very good reproduction of the last resting-place of a Viking. A neighbouring pleasure-garden, jealous of this happy idea of Marienlyst, has made in its grounds the identical pool in which Ophelia drowned herself. I have described above the Tivoli Gardens, in which all Copenhagen amuses itself in the summer. My knowledge of the winter amusements after dinner is but scanty, but I am told that the performances at the Opera are well worth seeing, and any one who is an amateur of dancing should see the performances of the Opera Corps de Ballet, from whence have come to us such artists as Miles. Genee and Britta. SWEDEN The Food of the Country — Stockholm Restaurants — Saltsjobaden — Storvik — Gothenburg. Most of the dishes of the countries of the north are very simple ones. The materials which a Swedish cook has at command are limited, and the dinners of the country, though good, plain, and plenteous, cannot be said to come under the heading of the Haute Cuisine. Some of the dishes of the country are Kaldalmar , chopped meat rolled in a cabbage leaf and fried ; Svensk Beff^ beef beaten thin and cooked with salt and a thick layer of pepper and onions ; Graflax , raw salmon eaten with oil, vinegar, pepper, and 'a sauce of sweet herbs ; Pytt a Joanna , fried dry hash, exactly like the American dish on which all the proprietors of boarding-houses in the States are supposed to feed their lodgers ; Stairgkarf which is the sausage of the country fried ; Filbunke , sour milk rather like our junket, eaten with ginger, *sugar, and scraped brown bread ; Bracht Sart Bringa , baked corned beef ; Tournedos a la Nobis , small steaks in little china pans, with asparagus points and a mayonnaise sauce ; Biff Apres , beef-steak and pork chopped fine, with potato round the dish. Stecht Strammirg is a fish much like a plaice. Smorgasbord , which is literally “ bread and butter,” is very much the same as the Russian Zakouska. The smorgasbord table and its 372The Gourmet's Guide to Europe accompanying stand of liqueurs is often in an anteroom to the dining-room. It was explained to me that the distances in the country being very great, some guests would arrive early, some late, and the smorgasbord table bridged over the many bad quarters of an hour which would otherwise have to be endured. Stockholm The Opera Kallaren, which forms part of the buildings of the Opera House, is, I should fancy, „ the most typical of all the Stockholm restaurants. I he big dining-room is panelled with wood the colour of dark cedar, and above this is some heavy gold ornamentation and some well-painted pictures of semi-nude nymphs and shepherds. The ceiling is of wood. I was one of a party of six who asked the proprietor to provide for us a lunch of Swedish dishes. This was the menu : — Smorgasbord. Filbunka. Graflax. Kraftstufning. Tjadar m lingon. Plattar m Sylt.