FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 198

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Danish ; and the same can be said for the cooking of the Hotel Bristol, a red-brick building with a high Hotel Bristol, tower up which people who wish to Raadhusplad see the view are conveyed in a lift. Men who know their Copenhagen have told me that a good dinner is to be found at the Phoenix. I had been told that I should find the national cookery in the Danish restaurant of the Tivoli Gardens, and that the price of it was 3 kroner. I hunted all the Tivoli through for this particular restaurant and did not find it. The Tivoli is a parallel to our Earl’s Court Exhibition, and it is in the very centre of the city. If all the buildings between Leicester Square and St. James Square were pulled down and a garden made with a great free concert hall and a great free theatre and a smaller theatre for pantomime with a tremendous peacock’s tail as a curtain and another stage for acrobats, and if side-shows galore and a score of cafes and restaurants were scattered about and a lake made and a pagoda built, then London would have something resembling the Copenhagen Tivoli. I tried at least ten of the cafe- restaurants in the Gardens, asking in my best Danish if they had national cookery. All blazed with light, in each I was bowed to a little table, and as I stood and parleyed a menu in which most dishes were a la was put into my hand. At last in despair I sat down at a table in one of the big dining-rooms which are on either side of the concert hall, a hall which is T)e?imark 369 in close imitation of the Taj at Agra. A well-fried flounder and some mutton and mushrooms which were dignified with the title of a la Marengo were quite good eating, but did not add to my knowledge of the national cookery. The National, almost opposite the Casino, a big brown building in which a great gramophone supplies music, and where cold poached eggs in cafe National, aspic are a favourite dish, is a favourite Caf® Industrie supping-place, and is crowded about I a.m., and the Industrie is another cafe where the supperers sit late. On the Sound If beautiful scenery and plain food can make a man contented, as they certainly should, Denmark in summer should be a paradise of content, for no sea- scapes could be more beautiful than those that are to be looked at from the restaurants of the hotels at half- a-dozen little bathing-places within easy reach of Stockholm. The coast of Sweden lies on the other side of the silver strait, little yachts with white sails lie and rock by the side of the piers, and the big ships pass continually up and down the channel. Skodsborg is one of these delightful settlements on the sea. Behind the Badehotel are Badehotel, beautiful beech woods, and many Skodsborg creepers and pollarded trees and a terraced garden give the plain simple hotel charming surroundings. Klampenborg, on the edge of the deer-forest about seven miles from Copenhagen, is another of these delightful bathing- places. The beech Badehotel, woods are a preserve for the royal deer, Klampenborg and at the Badehotel, with its many wooden balconies, I found everything very clean, the food simple, and the bill a very small one. 2 A 370 Tdhe Gourmet's Guide to Europe