FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 178

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
In the environs of Vienna there are pleasant restau- rants on the Kalenberg, up which a little railway runs, and at Klosterneuberg, where one can drink the excellent wine of the place at the Stiftskeller before 326 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe one admires the view from the terrace, or looks at the treasures of the abbey. Of the clubs of Vienna the Jockey Club is socially the most important. Then comes the Wiener Club. Third on the list is the Commercial Club. AFTER DINNER Ronacher’s is a huge music-hall and supping place where one can eat one’s evening meal and see at the same time a fine variety performance on the stage. For many years it was the finest variety theatre in Europe. It is well worth a visit even from those people who do not habitually go to music-halls. The Apollo is another music-hall where the great stars of the variety firmament often appear. So much has been written lately of the ballet at the Imperial Theatres of Russia, that it might be believed that no good dancing was to be seen outside St. Petersburg and Moscow. The corps de ballet of the Viennese opera dances admirably, they are all girls picked for their looks, the premieres danseuses are great artists, and the ballets are mounted as splendidly as in any other theatre in the world. I have seen “ Excelsior ” danced in most of the capitals of Europe, but nowhere so well or with such fine mounting as in Vienna. Of the theatres for light opera it is difficult to give any indications, for the right theatre to go to is the theatre at which the current success of Oscar Strauss or Leo Fall happens to be running. Though Vienna is an early closing town on the whole, the revellers stay late at “ Max and Moritz,” “ Susses Madel,” u Dummer Kerl,” and at such establishments as the Tabarin, Maxim’s, and the Chaperon Rouge, whose names are an indication of their character. d Austria 327 Salzburg The town of Salzburg, a delightful town, has half-a-dozen restaurants which give good, plain, well- cooked food. The buffet at the railway station is much above the average of such restaurants. At the Kurhaus Restaurant you may listen to a military band while you eat a mid-day table d'hote meal, which costs you about half-a-crown. Mirabel! in the Marktplatz has a garden where the tables are set in hot weather. There are many restaurants on the surrounding hills, on the Monchsberg and the Gaisberg. The cafe-restaurant on the plateau of the Monchsberg is a pleasant place to sit and listen to the band ; and the St. Hubertus is another pretty restau- rant on the long forest-clad line of hill. To see the good people of Salzburg enjoying themselves at their ease one should go to the St. Peter’s . .. Stiftskeller. It is a vaulted arcade StlMeller built against the side of the rock. The light wines of the country, red and white, obtainable here, are noticeably good. Supper is served at oak tables with- out any tablecloths, and a paper napkin is wrapped round the knife, spoon, and fork. The dishes of the day are the simple but not always easily diges- tible plats of Austria, Husaren-braten , Jungfern-braten , Kaiserfleisch , and the rest. The white Konventwein is a quite harmless beverage. Baden