FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 177

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
have preserved, show that Sacher’s is aware that Italy has an excellent national cuisine. The head waiter, who speaks a little English, is a very useful man to call into council if the table waiter is inclined to be too anxious that the diner should be a source of profit to the restaurant. The table waiter at Sacher’s I generally find is not satisfied to take note of the tip given to the head waiter who makes out and presents the bill. He expects a tip for himself. This to many English is their first notification that the indiscrimi- nate tipping which is prevalent in Austria extends to the restaurants. At the watering-places, Carlsbad, Marienbad, and the other Bohemian Baths, there are three waiters who expect a tip at mid-day dinner and supper — the head waiter, the table waiter, and the small boy who brings the wine. An Austrian at any except the very smart establishments generally gives 3d., 2d., and id. to the three waiters according to their grade. An Englishman generally gives more. Meissl and Schadn’s, which presents a very highly- decorated exterior to the Karthnerstrasse, and has an entrance in the market-place behind the house, is the typical Viennese restaurant. In the dining-rooms on the first floor, officials, officers, and the well-to-do citizens eat pickled veal, smoked sucking-pig, stewed beef of various kinds, stewed pork, Rls'i Bisi (rice and beans), and other national dishes. In various small rooms on the ground floor and in the basement varlets of various degrees revel at immensely reduced rates. Hartmann’s, almost opposite to the Bristol, is very Fran .7 Hart- popular at the time of the mid-day mann’s, meal. Its walls are panelled with The Ring green silk, and its windows command a view of the busy life of the Ring. Its cuisine is Austrian. Meissl and Schadn’s, Karth nerstrasse .zAu stria 325 The Stephan Keller (Cafe de l’Europe) in the Stephanplatz is a much frequented cafe. It was originally an underground resort in the vaults of St. Stephan, but it has risen to a higher sphere. This house is much used by the colony of artists who also are to be found at Hartmann’s, Gause’s, and the Rother Igel. The wines of the country of Retz, Mailberg, Pfaffstadt, Gumpoldskirchen, Klosterneuberg, Nuss- berg, and Voslau should all be tasted, most of them being more than drinkable. Beer, however, is the real Viennese drink, and the very light liquid, ice cold, is a delightful beverage. There are wine houses — Esterhazy Keller, for instance, where all classes go to drink the Hungarian wines from the estates of Prince Esterhazy — without number, and many of' these have their specialty of Itrian or Dalmatian wines. The Rathhaus Keller, a great arched series of rooms, has its various wine vaults, some patronised by the gentry, some by the common people. The summer resorts are mostly for the people only ; they are butterfly cafes, opening in the summer and closing in the winter, and if their clientele deserts them there are only some painted boards, tables, and benches to be carted away and a hedge to be dug out ; but in the Prater there are some more substantial establishments — Sacher’s, a branch of the town house, and the Rondeau and Lusthaus, which are made the turning-points in the daily drives of the Viennese. Vienna keeps very early hours, most of the cafes closing well before midnight, unless they are kept open for some special fete.