FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 13

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
a pale young man, with a mass of red hair, who is dressed in ordinary evening clothes, is a favourite object for the pencil of Sem and other Parisian caricaturists. It is quite possible that if there is a rage for Apache dances, or for Spanish dances, or for Otaheitan dances, one of these dances may be per- formed by professionals at i a.m., for the Cafe de Paris, content that its excellent cookery shall keep it in the front rank at the breakfast and dinner hour, despises none of the methods which supping places adopt to attract customers. The Ermitage Restaurant at the Rond Point of the Champs Elysees used to be a smart restaurant, much frequented by people of position in the world of sport. Chevillard was the original proprietor. It then passed into the hands of Emile Aoust, whom Englishmen will remember at the Amphitryon Club, and from this to those of M. Courtade, a Belgian. The restaurant at the time I write is closed ; but it is sure sooner or later to be reopened, as its position is an excellent one. The newest of the smart restaurants is the Daunon, which has sprung up in the road of that name near The Daunon, its junction with the Avenue de l’Opera. Rue Daunon The restaurant is a large hall, lighted from above, with walls of light colours ornamented with Wedgwood plaques. There are green marble pilasters with gilt capitals, and great flower baskets on the wall which conceal electric lamps. The carte is chiffre , the prices reasonable, and the attendance good.^. After supper there are “ attractions ” which take the shape of dancing girls. Of the restaurants attached to hotels I do not propose to write at length. At the Elysee Palace Elys^e Palace, in the Champs Elysees the restaurant Champs Elysees [ s an excellent one, and there is also a grill-room on the London model which is very ^Paris 2 1 popular with theatre-goers both at dinner and supper time. The restaurant of the new Meurice Hotel in the Rue de Rivoli is making a bid to be considered something better than a mere appanage The Meurice, of the hotel. The room is a very fine Rue de Rivoli one, with marble pilasters and cut-glass electroliers, and a good picture in the circular panel above the fireplace. Its cooking is decidedly good. I find that on days when there is racing in the Bois an appreciable number of parties on Restaurant des their way to the course call a halt at Champs Elysees, the Restaurant des Champs Elysees, ChamPs Elys®es which is a part of the Hotel d’Albe, to breakfast. The restaurant of the Hotel de Crillon, the great palace at the north-west corner of the Place de la Concorde, is the newest of the notable Hotel de Crillon dining places attached to hotels. The Place de la Con- restaurant is on the first floor in the corde Salon des Aigles of the Dukes of Crillon, and the cuisine is excellent. The Restaurant Volney is an offshoot of the Chat- ham Hotel, but has a separate entrance in the Rue Volney. It is a snug dining place, with The Volney, Rue red carpets, red screens, a scarlet band Volney in a crimson alcove, and lamps which are apparently of mother-of-pearl. There is an abundance of flowers always on the tables. . I can recommend the sole of the house, served with truffles and the flesh of lobsters. My dinner on the one occasion I have dined there cost me 18 francs, a moderate sum for quite a good meal.