Boudin grille a la Parisienne.
Ailerons de Volaille a la Tzar.
Cailles a la Lucullus.
Salade Durand.
Ecrevisses de la Meuse a la nage.
Crepes Suzette.
Dessert.
Champagnes.
Clicquot Brut, Pommery Drapeau Americain.
Gde Fine Napoleon.
The boudin is the indigestible sausage, in which pigs’
blood is an ingredient, which is a necessary portion
of every Christmas Eve feast. The proprietors of
Durand’s now own the little pavilion which Paillard
opened in the Champs Elysees.
The interior of La Rue’s is pleasantly bright. Its
seats of crushed strawberry colour, its pillars with the
La Rue’s, Place deep pink silk running half-way up
de la Madeleine them, its mirrors with cut-glass elec-
troliers on their surface, make it a typical Parisian
restaurant. In one corner a band plays quite in-
offensively. When the original proprietor of La Rue’s
retired with a fortune in 1909, M. Vaudable, a former
maitre d'hotel in the restaurant, and M. Nignon, who
is an ex-chef de cuisine of the Hermitage at Moscow,
stepped into his shoes, and the cookery of the restau-
rant became to a great extent Russianised. If I were
to publish in full the leaflet which gives the “ Mets
Russes Nationaux ” to be obtained at La Rue’s, I
should practically give a list of most of the plats in the
Russian cuisine. The Russian soups Rasso/nik and
Varis 1 9
St chi and Salianka , sturgeon cooked in various forms,
and Koulibianka of fishes, Srazi Popoloski , ./tow a la
Tartare , Schachlik Pokarski , and a dozen entremets
which are delightful to the tastes, but the names of
which read like different varieties of sneezes, are all
on this list. Where Cubat failed Nignon has suc-
ceeded, and the Parisians flock to La Rue’s to eat the
plats of their allies the Russians.
A word of advice should be addressed, however, to
the maitre d’ hotel at La Rue’s, and indeed to the maitres
d* hotel of all fashionable restaurants in Paris, not to
treat cavalierly people whom they do not recognise as
frequent customers, but who may have been in past
days very good friends of the house. Such a man, a
friend of mine, lunching at La Rue’s, ordered an apple
for his guest, an abbe, and when the bill was brought
called attention to the fact that 4 francs had been
charged for the fruit, he supposing that two apples
had been put down on the bill. The maitre ddiotel
did not behave at all politely, and the reduction of
50 centimes which the house offered to make, was
proffered with such a bad grace that it was refused.
As a matter of fact at that time the charge for an apple
at the Cafe Anglais and most other smart restaurants
was 3 francs. This incident sh^ws that it is wise to
ask the price of fruit at La Rue’s before ordering it.
The Cafe de Paris, in the Avenue de l’Opera,
is at breakfast and dinner time a restaurant much
frequented by cosmopolitan Paris, and Caf^ de Parig
the cuisine is excellent. It is wise if Avenue de
you wish to breakfast there to tele- 10pera #
phone in advance for a table. At supper-time the
butterfly ladies of Lutetia are to be seen there in all
their glory. The building is wedge-shaped, and two
rooms fork right and left from the entrance. The
room to the right is the one most in favour with
the Parisians. The leader of the band of Tziganes,
20 'The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
Page 12
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Boudin grille a la Parisienne.
Ailerons de Volaille a la Tzar.
Cailles a la Lucullus.
Salade Durand.
Ecrevisses de la Meuse a la nage.
Crepes Suzette.
Dessert.
Champagnes.
Clicquot Brut, Pommery Drapeau Americain.
Gde Fine Napoleon.
The boudin is the indigestible sausage, in which pigs’ blood is an ingredient, which is a necessary portion of every Christmas Eve feast. The proprietors of Durand’s now own the little pavilion which Paillard opened in the Champs Elysees.
The interior of La Rue’s is pleasantly bright. Its seats of crushed strawberry colour, its pillars with the La Rue’s, Place deep pink silk running half-way up de la Madeleine them, its mirrors with cut-glass electroliers on their surface, make it a typical Parisian restaurant. In one corner a band plays quite inoffensively. When the original proprietor of La Rue’s retired with a fortune in 1909, M. Vaudable, a former maitre d'hotel in the restaurant, and M. Nignon, who is an ex-chef de cuisine of the Hermitage at Moscow, stepped into his shoes, and the cookery of the restaurant became to a great extent Russianised. If I were to publish in full the leaflet which gives the “ Mets Russes Nationaux ” to be obtained at La Rue’s, I should practically give a list of most of the plats in the Russian cuisine. The Russian soups Rassolnik and
Varis 1 9
St chi and Soljanka , sturgeon cooked in various forms, and Kulebyaka of fishes, Srazi Popolski , Steak a la Tartare , Shashlik Pokarski , and a dozen entremets which are delightful to the tastes, but the names of which read like different varieties of sneezes, are all on this list. Where Cubat failed Nignon has succeeded, and the Parisians flock to La Rue’s to eat the plats of their allies the Russians.
A word of advice should be addressed, however, to the maitre d’ hotel at La Rue’s, and indeed to the maitres d* hotel of all fashionable restaurants in Paris, not to treat cavalierly people whom they do not recognise as frequent customers, but who may have been in past days very good friends of the house. Such a man, a friend of mine, lunching at La Rue’s, ordered an apple for his guest, an abbe, and when the bill was brought called attention to the fact that 4 francs had been charged for the fruit, he supposing that two apples had been put down on the bill. The maitre ddiotel did not behave at all politely, and the reduction of 50 centimes which the house offered to make, was proffered with such a bad grace that it was refused. As a matter of fact at that time the charge for an apple at the Cafe Anglais and most other smart restaurants was 3 francs. This incident sh^ws that it is wise to ask the price of fruit at La Rue’s before ordering it.
The Cafe de Paris, in the Avenue de l’Opera, is at breakfast and dinner time a restaurant much frequented by cosmopolitan Paris, and Caf^ de Parig the cuisine is excellent. It is wise if Avenue de you wish to breakfast there to tele- 10pera # phone in advance for a table. At supper-time the butterfly ladies of Lutetia are to be seen there in all their glory. The building is wedge-shaped, and two rooms fork right and left from the entrance. The room to the right is the one most in favour with the Parisians. The leader of the band of Tziganes,
20 'The Gourmet's Guide to Europe