The new century cookery book

Mirepoix. — Perfect braising demands the mirepoix, bed of sliced carrot, turnip, onion, bacon or ham,' and a small bouquet of herbs. A mirepoix is found essential for the moistenings of braised meats, and for imparting a delicate flavour of vegetables and aromatics, which cannot be effected by any other means. Again, most braises require garnishes of a more or less elaborate nature. The latter may, however, be quite simple, inexpensive, and yet effective, and can thus come within the reach of the average household kitchen. When stewing or braising meats &c., the liquor becomes slowly reduced in the process, and furnishes a most appropriate, fragrant, and delicious sauce with which to surround the portion when served at table. So meats which are otherwise dry and of little flavour, such as veal, become saturated with juices, which render the food succulent and delicious. Spices and wine are sometimes used to [illustration: Fricandeau Pan] impart their flavours. The process of cooking a braise is thus spoken of by Jules Gouffe in his ‘ Livre de Cuisine.’ The chief operation is one of slow simmering, for, he says, if the meat be exposed to sudden heat the gravy is insipid, colourless, and weak, as it too often is when prepared by careless or ignorant cooks. The gravy should be highly nutritious, of a rich high colour and flavour, and of gelatinous consistency. ‘I advise,’ he says, ‘that for braising the quantity of meat should be large rather than small, as a long process of cooking is most effective, and you at once obtain two admirable dishes instead of one, for when the braise is cold it is equally good, and affords a pleasant change.’ Poeler. — The idea which this word conveys in cookery is practically unknown in English kitchens. No English word has been found to describe its meaning. I am unable to fill up the gap by finding an appropriate English word. Poele means a deep frying-pan, or a fireproof earthenware pan, wherein a bed of vegetables, bacon, &c., or, in other words, a kind of mirepoix with its seasoning &c. is put ; upon this poultry, fowl, pullet, pigeons, &c. are placed. The bird is trussed and prepared as though for an entree, the breast is covered with slices of fat bacon, and when moistened with stock, the pan is placed upon burning embers or coals, and cooked gently till tender. Only a little liquid is used, frequent basting is necessary, but the liquid must be replenished as it reduces, so that the same quantity always remains. Etuver. — This is another French word of the cuisine the meaning of which is not clearly understood in this country. Smothering is the only English substitute which can convey the culinary meaning. To etuver or smother meat is to cook it slowly in a little stock without evaporation taking place, so that it cooks entirely and retains its natural flavour. This mode of cooking is always performed in the oven, and meat cooked in this style must always be thoroughly well done. Grilling. — This is one of the crudest and the most primitive of all forms of cooking, it is indeed, sometimes described as the savage mode of cooking, when slices of raw meat were strung on sticks, and were held over or close to a fire.