To effect the first-named purpose — that is, to retain the largest practicable proportion of gravy in a joint of meat — the meat to be boiled should be put into fast-boiling water, and be allowed to boil sharply for a few minutes only, whereby the closing up of the pores of cut ends of the soft fibres will be effected, for as soon as these ends have become hardened from the coagulation of the albumen the leak- age or exudation of the juices will cease. It is stated that albumen coagulates at as low a temperature as 120°, so that a few minutes im- mersion in boiling water which has a heat of 212° should amply suffice to prevent much of the juice from escaping. After this is j effected the cooking must be continued at a lower temperature till the joint is thoroughly done. On the other hand, if meat is put in cold water and allowed to boil up slowly, and iis then simmered until tender, it will be found that much of the nutritive juices have become incorporated in the water, which is then called broth. If this be carefully done, both meat and bi’oth can be consumed, so that there cannot be much loss of nutritive matter. Salt meats, such as salt beef, salt pork, tongues, ham, and other salt, pickled, or smoked meat, should be put on in cold water. The time allowed for boiling meats is from 20 to 25 minutes for every pound, according to the size and kind of meat, and from 15 to 20 minutes over. A leg of mutton weighing from 10 to 12 pounds will require from 3 to 3£ hours, if cooked gently. Fowls take from 40 minutes to H hour, according to size and age. Smoked ham and tongue should always be soaked in cold water for at least 12 hours. A large ham requires from five to six hours to cook. SIMMERING VERSUS BOILING Simmering at 180° is undoubtedly far more effective for meat than violent boiling at 212°. With very few exceptions the heat which is applied to do more than the smallest degree of simmering is practically wasted, the water being converted into useless steam. A fowl, or any ^ small joint, which is put into boiling water and is allowed to gallop for an hour or longer, can never be as satisfactory as if put on in boiling water or stock, made to boil for a minute or two, and then allowed to simmer gently for an hour. By this last process it will be found that the same joint is more tender, more juicy, and better flavoured than would be the case by quick boiling. 70 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK WHERE ACTUAL BOILING HEAT IS REQUIRED Boiling heat is required for only five purposes : 1. In the first place, as a preliminary step in the cooking of meats in general. 2. For all green, and most other vegetables. 3. For rapid reductions of stocks. 4. For evaporating water from a sauce, an infusion or a decoction from vinegar, from wine, or from milk. 5. For syrups of all kinds. For these purposes, and these alone, a cook should resort to what is known as quick boiling. Quick boiling can be brought down to slow boiling or simmering by the addition of cold water or cold stock. It is thus seen that boiling and simmering are quite distinct from each other. Quick and constant boiling will never yield, as far as meat, soups, ragouts, and some sauces are concerned, such good results as slow boiling, simmering, or seething, as it is sometimes called, will produce.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

To effect the first-named purpose — that is, to retain the largest practicable proportion of gravy in a joint of meat — the meat to be boiled should be put into fast-boiling water, and be allowed to boil sharply for a few minutes only, whereby the closing up of the pores of cut ends of the soft fibres will be effected, for as soon as these ends have become hardened from the coagulation of the albumen the leakage or exudation of the juices will cease. It is stated that albumen coagulates at as low a temperature as 120°, so that a few minutes immersion in boiling water which has a heat of 212° should amply suffice to prevent much of the juice from escaping. After this is j effected the cooking must be continued at a lower temperature till the joint is thoroughly done. On the other hand, if meat is put in cold water and allowed to boil up slowly, and is then simmered until tender, it will be found that much of the nutritive juices have become incorporated in the water, which is then called broth. If this be carefully done, both meat and bi’oth can be consumed, so that there cannot be much loss of nutritive matter. Salt meats, such as salt beef, salt pork, tongues, ham, and other salt, pickled, or smoked meat, should be put on in cold water. The time allowed for boiling meats is from 20 to 25 minutes for every pound, according to the size and kind of meat, and from 15 to 20 minutes over. A leg of mutton weighing from 10 to 12 pounds will require from 3 to 3£ hours, if cooked gently. Fowls take from 40 minutes to H hour, according to size and age. Smoked ham and tongue should always be soaked in cold water for at least 12 hours. A large ham requires from five to six hours to cook. SIMMERING VERSUS BOILING Simmering at 180° is undoubtedly far more effective for meat than violent boiling at 212°. With very few exceptions the heat which is applied to do more than the smallest degree of simmering is practically wasted, the water being converted into useless steam. A fowl, or any ^ small joint, which is put into boiling water and is allowed to gallop for an hour or longer, can never be as satisfactory as if put on in boiling water or stock, made to boil for a minute or two, and then allowed to simmer gently for an hour. By this last process it will be found that the same joint is more tender, more juicy, and better flavoured than would be the case by quick boiling. WHERE ACTUAL BOILING HEAT IS REQUIRED Boiling heat is required for only five purposes : 1. In the first place, as a preliminary step in the cooking of meats in general. 2. For all green, and most other vegetables. 3. For rapid reductions of stocks. 4. For evaporating water from a sauce, an infusion or a decoction from vinegar, from wine, or from milk. 5. For syrups of all kinds. For these purposes, and these alone, a cook should resort to what is known as quick boiling. Quick boiling can be brought down to slow boiling or simmering by the addition of cold water or cold stock. It is thus seen that boiling and simmering are quite distinct from each other. Quick and constant boiling will never yield, as far as meat, soups, ragouts, and some sauces are concerned, such good results as slow boiling, simmering, or seething, as it is sometimes called, will produce.

The new century cookery book