After the hors d’ceuvre a dinner begins with its first course, audit includes the small and large entrees. It is here where one is apt to get confused. Large entrees are frequently substituted for a remove or releve, so called, because it takes the place of the soup-tureen, being served immediately after the soup. The remove must not have the character of an entree, for it may mean either a fish or a joint of meat, and we should never think of calling either of these an entree ; for, as I said before, entree is a name which we associate with made dishes. To make this quite clear, and be the other name whatever it may, if people will have a joint of meat or fish (remove or piece de resistance), then the proper place according to the French idea is that it must be served immediately after the soup, that is at the beginning 266 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK of the first course (the term first and second course or service is rarely ever used now, for it fulfils no purpose) ; while in England it is served at the end of the first course. 679. Classification of Entrees. — Entrees are divided into two classes, the hot and cold service. The hot dishes may be sub- divided again into two classes, the light and the solid entrees, or those which are served with a sauce, and those served without a sauce. There are a large number of entrees composed of meat sauted, fried, grilled, broiled, or braised, dressed simply with a good sauce, or if applicable with a dainty vegetable garnish. This garnish and sauce may also be applied to removes ; these, however, differ from entrees, inasmuch as in the former case the pieces are dressed small, while in the latter they usually consist of a boned joint, which is served whole. On the other hand there are other dishes of a more elaborate kind, both in preparation and garnish. All these come under the heading of hot entrees, solid, otherwise known as the small hot meats garnished, such as cutlets, fillets, grenadins, escallops, tournedos, large pates, sweetbreads, fricandeaux, ragouts, fricassees, boudins, quenelles, salmis, compotes, etc. Light entrees consist of various kinds of dainty morsels, such as souffles (small), meat fritters, small pates, bouchees, rissoles, croquettes, cromeskies, fricandines, beignets, timbales, darioles. 680. Cold Entrees. — This is known as the cold service. It is the most elegant and most artistic portion of cookery in general, es- pecially so when large dishes for special occasions are to be prepared, for ball suppers, banquets, wedding breakfasts, grand buffets, &c., where the moulding or ornaments in wax, fat, rice, &c. is required. Flowers, figures, &c., are then introduced in a great variety. A great deal of skill and study are required for this branch of the art. Any cook of ordinary intelligence may, however, by careful study, become an expert in this branch, provided he or she will give it special and sole attention for a time, so as to develop fully some artistic taste and ideas.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

After the hors d'oeuvre a dinner begins with its first course, audit includes the small and large entrees. It is here where one is apt to get confused. Large entrees are frequently substituted for a remove or releve, so called, because it takes the place of the soup-tureen, being served immediately after the soup. The remove must not have the character of an entree, for it may mean either a fish or a joint of meat, and we should never think of calling either of these an entree ; for, as I said before, entree is a name which we associate with made dishes. To make this quite clear, and be the other name whatever it may, if people will have a joint of meat or fish (remove or piece de resistance), then the proper place according to the French idea is that it must be served immediately after the soup, that is at the beginning of the first course (the term first and second course or service is rarely ever used now, for it fulfils no purpose) ; while in England it is served at the end of the first course. 679. Classification of Entrees. — Entrees are divided into two classes, the hot and cold service. The hot dishes may be subdivided again into two classes, the light and the solid entrees, or those which are served with a sauce, and those served without a sauce. There are a large number of entrees composed of meat sauted, fried, grilled, broiled, or braised, dressed simply with a good sauce, or if applicable with a dainty vegetable garnish. This garnish and sauce may also be applied to removes ; these, however, differ from entrees, inasmuch as in the former case the pieces are dressed small, while in the latter they usually consist of a boned joint, which is served whole. On the other hand there are other dishes of a more elaborate kind, both in preparation and garnish. All these come under the heading of hot entrees, solid, otherwise known as the small hot meats garnished, such as cutlets, fillets, grenadins, escallops, tournedos, large pates, sweetbreads, fricandeaux, ragouts, fricassees, boudins, quenelles, salmis, compotes, etc. Light entrees consist of various kinds of dainty morsels, such as souffles (small), meat fritters, small pates, bouchees, rissoles, croquettes, cromeskies, fricandines, beignets, timbales, darioles. 680. Cold Entrees. — This is known as the cold service. It is the most elegant and most artistic portion of cookery in general, especially so when large dishes for special occasions are to be prepared, for ball suppers, banquets, wedding breakfasts, grand buffets, &c., where the moulding or ornaments in wax, fat, rice, &c. is required. Flowers, figures, &c., are then introduced in a great variety. A great deal of skill and study are required for this branch of the art. Any cook of ordinary intelligence may, however, by careful study, become an expert in this branch, provided he or she will give it special and sole attention for a time, so as to develop fully some artistic taste and ideas.

The new century cookery book