Pork. — Good pork should have a smooth thin rind, and when fresh the flesh is smooth and firm to the touch. Pork meat which has the rind already pared off should not be bought, as this is often done when the meat is of inferior quality. If, as with other meats, it looks flabby, and is clammy to the touch, it is not good ; and pork above all meats is dis- agreeable and often dangerous when con- sumed in such a state. Should there be any sign of enlarged glands or kernels in the fat of pork, it may be taken as a sure sign that the meat is unfit for use, as it cannot be wholesome. Pork, like oysters, should only be eaten when there is an ‘ E ’ in the month. Fresh pork is usually roasted ; the skin (called a golden colour, and forms a favourite (poec). — Side of Pork showing the various cuts, joints, &c. crackling) then acquires morsel. When salted or pickled the meat is boiled, and is frequently served as an accompaniment with other drier kinds of meats. MARKETING 33 When pork is salted and cured, it is called bacon. The head of pork, called pig’s cheek, is one of the cheapest parts ; it is sometimes roasted, but is mostly salted and boiled. Collared head and brawn are made from pig’s cheek. GUIDE FOE OEDEEING BACON a. Fore hock (fore end), weight about 9 lb. b. Thick streaky (prime piece), weight about 6 1b. c. Thin streaky, weight about 4 lb. d. Flank, weight about 3 lb. e. Cushion (gammon), weight about 9 lb. p. Corner of gammon, weight about 4 lb. g. Loin, weight about 8 lb. h. Back and ribs (prime cut), weight about 9 lb. i. Collar (prime part and end) weight about 7 lb. Bacon. — Like pork, good bacon should have a thin rind ; the fat must be firm and of a good colour. The best bacon, if mild cured, is of a pale colour, and the meat adheres firmly to the bones. There should be no so-called yellow streaks in it. To ascertain the good quality of a ham or gammon of bacon, insert a. steel skewer or a knife ; if it comes out clean, and no disagreeable smell is detected, it is a sign of good quality ; but if some particles of meat cling to the skewer or knife when withdrawn, and the smell is unpleasant, it is certain that the curing is at fault, or the article is of inferior quality. A short and thick ham is always accepted as the best. POULTEY OE GAME Fresh Poultry is known by the following signs : the feet are soft or moist, the eyes are clear, and there is no bluish or greenish tint round the veins. Fowls, when young, should have smooth legs and combs ; when old the reverse will be observed. Surrey fowls and Surrey chickens are acknowledged to be the best. The cock bird is young when it has a smooth leg and short spurs ; hens when young have smooth legs ; the breast bone should be soft and pliable. Black -legged fowls are best used for roasting, whilst white-legged fowls are best for boiling. D 84 THE NEW CENTURY COOKERY BOOK Turkeys, when young, have smooth black legs : when they are- rough and reddish they are old and not likely to cook tender. When freshly killed the eyes of turkeys will be found bright, full and fresh. Norfolk turkeys are reckoned the best. The cock bird is best suited for roasting, and the hen for boiling.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Pork. — Good pork should have a smooth thin rind, and when fresh the flesh is smooth and firm to the touch. Pork meat which has the rind already pared off should not be bought, as this is often done when the meat is of inferior quality. If, as with other meats, it looks flabby, and is clammy to the touch, it is not good ; and pork above all meats is disagreeable and often dangerous when consumed in such a state. Should there be any sign of enlarged glands or kernels in the fat of pork, it may be taken as a sure sign that the meat is unfit for use, as it cannot be wholesome. Pork, like oysters, should only be eaten when there is an 'R' in the month. Fresh pork is usually roasted ; the skin (called a golden colour, and forms a favourite (poec). — Side of Pork showing the various cuts, joints, &c. crackling) then acquires morsel. When salted or pickled the meat is boiled, and is frequently served as an accompaniment with other drier kinds of meats. When pork is salted and cured, it is called bacon. The head of pork, called pig’s cheek, is one of the cheapest parts ; it is sometimes roasted, but is mostly salted and boiled. Collared head and brawn are made from pig’s cheek. GUIDE FOR ORDERING BACON a. Fore hock (fore end), weight about 9 lb. b. Thick streaky (prime piece), weight about 6 1b. c. Thin streaky, weight about 4 lb. d. Flank, weight about 3 lb. e. Cushion (gammon), weight about 9 lb. p. Corner of gammon, weight about 4 lb. g. Loin, weight about 8 lb. h. Back and ribs (prime cut), weight about 9 lb. i. Collar (prime part and end) weight about 7 lb. Bacon. — Like pork, good bacon should have a thin rind ; the fat must be firm and of a good colour. The best bacon, if mild cured, is of a pale colour, and the meat adheres firmly to the bones. There should be no so-called yellow streaks in it. To ascertain the good quality of a ham or gammon of bacon, insert a. steel skewer or a knife ; if it comes out clean, and no disagreeable smell is detected, it is a sign of good quality ; but if some particles of meat cling to the skewer or knife when withdrawn, and the smell is unpleasant, it is certain that the curing is at fault, or the article is of inferior quality. A short and thick ham is always accepted as the best. POULTEY OE GAME Fresh Poultry is known by the following signs : the feet are soft or moist, the eyes are clear, and there is no bluish or greenish tint round the veins. Fowls, when young, should have smooth legs and combs ; when old the reverse will be observed. Surrey fowls and Surrey chickens are acknowledged to be the best. The cock bird is young when it has a smooth leg and short spurs ; hens when young have smooth legs ; the breast bone should be soft and pliable. Black -legged fowls are best used for roasting, whilst white-legged fowls are best for boiling. D Turkeys, when young, have smooth black legs : when they arerough and reddish they are old and not likely to cook tender. When freshly killed the eyes of turkeys will be found bright, full and fresh. Norfolk turkeys are reckoned the best. The cock bird is best suited for roasting, and the hen for boiling.

The new century cookery book