Modern cookery, in all its branches

* We have known this applied very successfully to salmon which from some hours’ keeping in sultry weather had acquired, a slight degree of taint, of which no trace remained after it was dressed ; as a general yule, however, fish which rot wholesomely fresh should be rejected for the table- piacc all motion will instantly cease.” We quote Dr. Kitchener’s assertion on this subject ; but we know that the mode of destruction which he recommends is commonly practised by the London fishmongers. Boiling water also will immediately cause vitality to cease, and is perhaps the most humane and ready method of destroying the fish. Lobsters, prawns, and shrimps, are very stiff when freshly boiled, and the tails turn strongly inwards ; when these relax, and the fish are soft and watery, they are stale ; and the smell will detect their being so, instantly, even if no other symptoms of it be remarked. If bought alive, lobsters should be chosen by their weight and “ liveliness.” The hen lobster is preferred for sauce and soups, on account of the coral ; but the flesh of the male is generally considered of finer flavour for eating. The vivacity of their leaps will show when prawns and shrimps are fresh from the sea. Oysters should close forcibly on the knife when they are opened : if the shells are apart ever so little they are losing their condition, and when they remain far open the fish are dead, and fit only to be thrown away. Small plump natives are very preferable to the larger and coarser kinds. TO CLEAN FISH. Let this be always done with the most scrupulous nicety, for nothing can more effectually destroy the appetite, or disgrace the cook, than fish sent to table imperfectly cleaned. Handle it lightly, and never throw it roughly about, so as to bruise it ; wash it well, but do not leave it longer in the water than is necessary ; for fish, like meat, loses its flavour from being soaked. When the scales are to be removed, lay the fish flat upon its side and hold it firmly with the left hand, while they are scraped off with the right ; turn it, and when both sides are done, pour or pump sufficient water to float off all the loose scales ; then proceed to empty it ; and do this without opening it more than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of cleanliness. Be sure that not the slightest particle of offensive matter be left in the inside ; wash out the blood entirely, and scrape or brush it away if needful from the backbone. This may easily be accomplished without opening the fish so much as to render it unsightly when it is sent to table. When the scales are left on, the outside of the fish should be well washed and wiped with a coarse cloth, drawn gently from the head to the tail . Eels to be wholesome should be skinned, but they are sometimes dressed without ; boiling water should then be poured upon them, and they should be left in it from five to ten minutes before they are cut up. The dark skin of the sole must be stripped off when it is fried, but it should be left on it like that of a turbot when the fish is boiled, and it should be dished with the white side upwards. Whitings are skinned before they are egged and crumbed for frying, but for boiling or broiling, the skin is left on them. The gills of all fish (the red mullet sometimes excepted), must be taken out. The fins of a turbot,