The present chapter already so far exceeds the limits within
which it ought to have been confined, that we are obliged to reserve
several additions which we were desirous of making to it, for the
chance of being able to insert them in an appendix.
43
MODERN COOKERY.
[chap. ii.
CHAPTER II
TO CHOOSE FISH.
The cook should be well
acquainted with the
signs of freshness and
good condition in fish, as
they are most unwhole-
some articles of food
when stale, and many
of them are also dan-
gerous eating when they
are out of season. The
eyes should always be
bright, the gills of a
fine clear red, the body
stiff, the flesh firm, yet
CHAP. II.]
FISII.
49
agreeable. When all these marks are reversed, and the eyes are
sunken, the gills very dark in hue, the fish itself flabby and of offen-
sive odour, it is bad, and should be avoided.
The chloride of soda, will, it is true, restore
it to a tolerably eatable state,* if it be not
very much over-kept, but it will never resem-
ble in quality and wholesomeness fish which
is fresh from the water.
A good turbot is thick, and full fleshed, and
the under side is of a pale cream colour or
yellowish white ; when this is of a bluish tint,
and the fish is thin and soft, it should be re-
jected. The same observations apply equally
The best salmon and cod fish are known by a small head, very
thick shoulders, and a small tail ; the scales of the former should be
bright, and its flesh of a fine red colour ; to be eaten in perfection it
should be dressed as soon as it is caught, before the curd (or white
substance which lies between the flakes of flesh) has melted and ren-
dered the fish oily. In that state it is really crimp, but continues so
only for a very few hours ; and it bears therefore a much higher price
in the London market then, than when mellowed by having been kept
a day or two.
The flesh of cod fish should be white and clear before it is boiled,
whiter still after it is boiled, and firm though tender, sweet and mild
in flavour, and separated easily into large flakes. Many persons con-
sider it rather improved than otherwise by having a little salt rubbed
along the inside of the backbone and letting it lie from twenty-four tc
forty-eight hours before it is dressed, It is sometimes served crimp
like salmon, and must then be sliced as soon as it is dead, or within the
shortest possible time afterwards.
Herrings, mackerel, and whitings, unless newly caught, are quite
uneatable. When they are in good condition their natural colours
will be very distinct and their whole appearance glossy and fresh.
The herring when first taken from the water is of a silvery bright-
ness ; the back of the mackerel is of a bright green marked with dark
stripes ; but this becomes of a coppery colour as the fish grows stale.
The whiting is of a pale brown or fawn colour with a pinkish tint ;
but appears dim and leaden-hued when no longer fresh.
Eels should be alive and brisk in movement when they are purchased,
but the “ horrid barbarity,” as it is truly designated, of skinning and
dividing them while they are so, is without excuse, as they are easily
destroyed “ by piercing the spinal marrow close to the back part of the
skull with a sharp pointed knife or skewer. If this be done in the right
Page 72
Presented as published in 1884. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The present chapter already so far exceeds the limits within which it ought to have been confined, that we are obliged to reserve several additions which we were desirous of making to it, for the chance of being able to insert them in an appendix.
[chap. ii.
CHAPTER II
TO CHOOSE FISH.
The cook should be well acquainted with the signs of freshness and good condition in fish, as they are most unwholesome articles of food when stale, and many of them are also dangerous eating when they are out of season. The eyes should always be bright, the gills of a fine clear red, the body stiff, the flesh firm, yet
FISII.
agreeable. When all these marks are reversed, and the eyes are sunken, the gills very dark in hue, the fish itself flabby and of offensive odour, it is bad, and should be avoided. The chloride of soda, will, it is true, restore it to a tolerably eatable state,* if it be not very much over-kept, but it will never resemble in quality and wholesomeness fish which is fresh from the water.
A good turbot is thick, and full fleshed, and the under side is of a pale cream colour or yellowish white ; when this is of a bluish tint, and the fish is thin and soft, it should be rejected. The same observations apply equally
The best salmon and cod fish are known by a small head, very thick shoulders, and a small tail ; the scales of the former should be bright, and its flesh of a fine red colour ; to be eaten in perfection it should be dressed as soon as it is caught, before the curd (or white substance which lies between the flakes of flesh) has melted and rendered the fish oily. In that state it is really crimp, but continues so only for a very few hours ; and it bears therefore a much higher price in the London market then, than when mellowed by having been kept a day or two.
The flesh of cod fish should be white and clear before it is boiled, whiter still after it is boiled, and firm though tender, sweet and mild in flavour, and separated easily into large flakes. Many persons consider it rather improved than otherwise by having a little salt rubbed along the inside of the backbone and letting it lie from twenty-four tc forty-eight hours before it is dressed, It is sometimes served crimp like salmon, and must then be sliced as soon as it is dead, or within the shortest possible time afterwards.
Herrings, mackerel, and whitings, unless newly caught, are quite uneatable. When they are in good condition their natural colours will be very distinct and their whole appearance glossy and fresh. The herring when first taken from the water is of a silvery brightness ; the back of the mackerel is of a bright green marked with dark stripes ; but this becomes of a coppery colour as the fish grows stale. The whiting is of a pale brown or fawn colour with a pinkish tint ; but appears dim and leaden-hued when no longer fresh.
Eels should be alive and brisk in movement when they are purchased, but the “ horrid barbarity,” as it is truly designated, of skinning and dividing them while they are so, is without excuse, as they are easily destroyed “ by piercing the spinal marrow close to the back part of the skull with a sharp pointed knife or skewer. If this be done in the right