Modern cookery, in all its branches

quarter some of the inferior quinces, and boil them in as much water as will nearly cover them, until they begin to break ; strain the juice from them, and for the marmalade put half a pint of it to each pound of fresh quinces : in preparing these, be careful to cut out the hard stony parts round the cores. Simmer them gently until they are perfectly tender, then press them, with the juice, through a coarse sieve ; put them into a perfectly clean pan, and boil them until they form almost a dry paste ; add for each pound of quinces and the half pint of juice, three-quarters of a pound of sugar in fine powder, and boil the marmalade for half an hour, stirring it gently without ceasing : it will be very firm and bright in colour. If made shortly after the fruit is gathered, a little additional sugar will be required ; and when a richer and less dry marmalade is better liked, it must be boiled for a shorter time, and an equal weight of fruit and sugar may be used. Quinces, pared and cored, 4 lbs. ; prepared juice, 1 quart : 2 to 3 hours. Boiled fast to dry, 20 to 40 minutes. Sugar, 3 lbs.: 30 minutes. Richer marmalade : quinces, 4 lbs. ; juice, 1 quart ; sugar, 4 lbs. QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE. Boil together, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, two pounds of pearmains, or of any other well-flavoured apples, in an equal weight of prepared quince-juice (see page 456), then take them from the fire, and mix with them a pound and a half of sugar, in fine powder ; when this is a little dissolved, set the pan again over a brisk fire, and boil the preserve for twenty minutes longer, keeping it stirred all the time. Prepared quince-juice, 2 lbs. ; apples, 2 lbs. : ^ to 1 hour. Sugar, 14 lb. : 20 minutes. QUINCE PASTE. If the full flavour of the quinces be desired, stew them sufficiently tender to press through a sieve, in the prepared juice of page 456, otherwise, in just water enough to about three parts cover them ; when they are soft quite through lift them out, let them cool, and then pass them through a sieve ; reduce them to a dry paste over a very clear fire, and stir them constantly ; then weigh the fruit, and mix it with an equal proportion of pounded sugar, or sugar boiled to candy height (we find the effect nearly the same, whichever method be pursued), and stir the paste without intermission until it is again so dry as to quit the pan and adhere to the spoon in one large ball; press it into shallow pans or dishes ; cut it, as soon as cold, into small squares, and should they seem to require it, dry them with a very gentle degree of heat, and when they are again cold store them in tin eases with well-dried foolscap paper between them : the paste may be [chap. xxrv. moulded, when more convenient, and kept until it is wanted for table, in a very dry place. In France, where the fruit is admirably confected, the p ate de coigns, or quince paste, is somewhat less boiled than we have directed, and dried afterwards in the sun, or in an extremely gentle oven, in square tin frames, about an inch and a half deep, placed upon clean slates. JELLY OF SIBERIAN CRABS.