Modern cookery, in all its branches

Obs. — The quantity of apples required for it renders this a rather expensive preserve, where they are not abundant ; but it is a remarkably fine jelly, and turns out from the moulds in perfect shape and very firm.* It may be served in the second course, or for dessert. It is sometimes made without paring the apples, or dipping them into the water, and the colour is then a deep red : we have occasionally had a pint of water added to about a gallon and a half of apples, but the jelly was not then quite so fine in flavour. The best time for making it is from the end of November to Christmas. Quince jelly would, without doubt, be very fine made by this receipt ; but as the juice of that fruit is richer than that of the apple, a little water might be added. Alternate layers of apples and quinces would also answer well, we think. QUINCE JELLY. Pare, quarter, core, and weigh some ripe but quite sound quinces, as quickly as possible, and throw them as they are done into part of the water in which they are to be boiled, as directed at page 456 ; allow one pint of this to each pound of the fruit, and simmer it gently until it is a little broken, but not so long as to redden the juice, which ought to be very pale. Turn the whole into a jelly-bag, or strain the liquid through a fine cloth, and let it drain very closely from it but without the slightest pressure. Weigh the juice, put it into a delicately clean preserving pan, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes ; take it from the fire and stir in it, until it is entirely dissolved, twelve ounces of sugar for each pound of juice, or fourteen ounces if the fruit should be very acid, which it will be in the earlier part of the season ; keep it constantly stirred and thoroughly cleared from scum, from ten to twenty minutes longer, or until it jellies strongly in falling from the skimmer ; then pour it directly into glasses or moulds. If properly made, it will be sufficiently firm to turn out of the latter, and it will be beautifully transparent, and rich in flavour. It may be made with an equal weight of juice and sugar mixed together in the first instance, and boiled from twenty to thirty minutes. It is difficult to state the time precisely, because from different causes it will vary much. It should be reduced rapidly to the proper point, as long boiling injures the colour : this is always more perfectly preserved by boiling the juice without the sugar first. To each pound pared and cored quinces, 1 pint water : % to 1 £ hour. Juice, boiled 20 minutes. To each pound, 12 oz. sugar : 10 to 20 minutes. Or, juice and sugar equal weight : 20 to 30 minutes. QUINCE MARMALADE. When to economise the fruit is not an object, pare, core, and * It is, we should say, quite equal to gelee d: pomrnes , for which Rouen is somewhat celebrated.