Modern cookery, in all its branches

Wash well, and wipe, some potatoes of good flavour; cut them up into slices of from half to a whole inch thick, free them from the skins, and then pare them round and round in very thin, and very long ribbons. Lay them into a pan of cold water, and half an hour before they are wanted for table lift them on to a sieve that they may be well drained. Fry them in good butter, which should be very hot when they are thrown in, until they are quite crisp, and lightly browned ; drain and dry them on a soft cloth, pile them in a hot dish, strew over them a mixed seasoning of salt and cayenne in fine powder, and serve them without delay. For the second course, dress them in the same manner, but omit the cayenne. Five or six minutes will fry them FRIED POTATOES. ( ENTREMETS.) (A Plainer Receipt.) After having washed them, wipe and pare some raw potatoes, cut them in slices of equal thickness, or into thin shavings, and throw them into plenty of boiling butter, or very pure clarified dripping. Fry them of a fine light brown, and very crisp ; lift them out with a skimmer, drain them on a soft warm cloth, dish them very hot, and sprinkle fine salt over them. This is an admirable way of dressing potatoes, very common on the Continent, but less so in England than it deserves to be. Pared in ribbons or shavings of equal width, as in the receipt above, and served dry and well fried, lightly piled in a dish, they make a handsome appearance, and are excellent eating If sliced they should be something less than a quarter of an inch thick. MASHED POTATOES. Boil them perfectly tender quite through, pour off the water, and steam them very dry by the directions already given in the receipt of * Vegetables and fruit are now so generally forced and brought so early into our markets, that there is little need of these expedients at present. [chap. XVII.] page 310, peel them quickly, take out every speck, and while they are still hot, press the potatoes through an earthen cullender, or bruise them to a smooth mash with a strong wooden fork or spoon, hut never pound them in a mortar, as that will reduce them to a close heavy paste. Let them he entirely free from lumps , for nothing can be more indicative of carelessness or want of skill on the part of the cook, than mashed potatoes sent to table full of these. Melt in a clean saucepan a slice of good butter with a few spoonsful of milk, or, better still, of cream ; put in the potatoes after having sprinkled some fine salt upon them, and stir the whole over a gentle fire with a wooden spoon, until the ingredients are well-mixed, and the whole is very hot. It may then be served directly ; or heaped high in a dish, left rough on the surface, and browned before the fire ; or it may be pressed into a well buttered mould of handsome form, which has been strewed with the finest bread crumbs, and shaken free from the loose ones, then turned out, and browned in a Dutch or common oven. More or less liquid will be required to moisten sufficiently potatoes of various kinds. Potatoes mashed, 2 lbs. ; salt, 1 teaspoonful ; butter, 1 to 2 oz. ; milk or cream, I pint. Ohs. — Mashed potatoes are often moulded with a cup, and then equally browned : any other shape will answer the purpose as well, and many are of better appearance. ENGLISn POTATO BALLS, OR CROQUETTES.