Modern cookery, in all its branches

Obs. — We always, for our own eating, have new potatoes steamed for ten minutes or longer after the water is poured from them, and think they are much improved by the process. They should be thoroughly boiled before this is done. [chap. XVII. NEW POTATOES IN BUTTER. Rub off the skins, wash the potatoes well and wipe them dry ; put them with three ounces of good butter, for a small dish, and with four ounces or more for a large one, into a well-tinned stewpan or saucepan, and simmer them over a gentle fire for about half an hour Keep them well shaken or tossed, that they may be equally done, and throw in some salt when they begin to stew. This is a good mode of dressing them when they are very young and watery. TO BOIL POTATOES. (Captain Rater's Receipt.) Wash, wipe, and pare the potatoes, cover them with cold water, and boil them gently until they are done, pour off the water, and sprinkle a little fine salt over them; then take each potato separately with a spoon, and lay it into a clean warm cloth, twist this so as to press all the moisture from the vegetable, and render it quite round ; turn it carefully into a dish placed before the fire, throw a cloth over, and when all are done, send them to table quickly. Potatoes dressed in this way are mashed without the slightest trouble ; it is also by far the best method of preparing them for puddings or for cakes. TO ROAST OR BAKE POTATOES. Scrub and wash exceedingly clean some potatoes nearly assorted in size ; wipe them very dry, and roast them in a Dutch oven before the fire, placing them at a distance from it, and keeping them often turned ; or arrange them in a coarse dish, and bake them in a moderate oven. Dish them neatly in a napkin, and send them very hot to table ; serve cold butter with them. 1 f to upwards of 2 hours. SCOOPED POTATOES. (ENTREMETS.) Wash and wipe some large potatoes of a firm kind, and with a small scoop adapted to the purpose, f form as many diminutive ones as will fill a dish ; cover them with cold water, and when they have boiled very gently for five minutes pour it off, and put more cold water to them ; after they have simmered a second time for five minutes, drain the water quite away, place the cover of the saucepan so as to leave an inch or more of open space for the * Or second course dish. + This may be procured of any ironmonger. moisture to evaporate, and let them steam by the side of the fire from four to five minutes longer. Dish them carefully, pour white sauce over them, and serve them in the second course. Old potatoes thus prepared, have often been made to pass for new ones, at the best tables, at the season in which the fresh vegetable was dearest.* The time required to boil them will of course vary with their quality we give the method which we have found very successful. CRISPED POTATOES, OR POTATO-RIBBONS. (ENTREMETS.) (Or to serve with Cheese.)