The encyclopaedia of practical cookery

Unhappily too much attention is paid by cooks to the classification of dishes and the division of the Menu into services ; better would it be if a plain list were given of the order in which the dishes were to be served. Certainly some great reform is needed in the arrangement of Menus, and this will come to pass in due course. An experienced author writes : “ The theory of a Menu and of the composition of a dinner is simplicity itself ; in general terms, it begins with an excitant, namely soup, satisfies hunger gradually by fish, savoury dishes, and roasts, with which latter a salad comes in to excite the digestion once more, and prepare the way for a vegetable, which will be followed by the dessert.” In composing your Menu, you must consult first of all the market, and secondly the number of guests to be served; in selecting the dishes, the chief things to avoid are such gross errors as the repetition of meats, or sauces, or the introduction at an early stage of highlyspiced viands. The order usually adopted in the Menu is : First course : Hors d’ceuvres, Soups, Fish, Removes, and Entrees. Second course : A Punch or Sorbet, Roasts, Vegetables, Sweet Entremets, Dessert, and Ices. Wines suitable for each service may be denoted at the side of the Menu, but it is usual to leave the selection to individual taste, some persons preferring to drink but one wine throughout the meal. For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, etc., referred to, see under their special heads. Menus — continued. A very vexed question amongst cooks is the language that should be used on the Menu, French being usually adopted, or a mixture of French and English, with some very amusing results. As a ride the cook should study the company to be provided for, and the character of the dinnei’ — if purely English, the Menu should be in that language as far as possible; if French, then French throughout; and so also of German, Italian, or any other language. Such ridiculous medleys as beef roti, frontage, &c., instead of roasted beef and cheese, are unworthy a place amongst our culinary records. MERINGUES.— There is considerable doubt attending the derivation of this word, and some very extravagant attempts have been made to find its origination, without sufficient success. By some it is supposed that it refers to the word white, but this requires such a very roundabout process of explanation that it is not worth entertaining ; the more probable origin being that of the inventor’s or manufacturer's name. Meringue consists essentially of whites of eggs beaten with caster sugar to a froth, and then set in a quick oven. This would naturally suggest numerous artistic adaptations of Meringue, and some of these are described hereunder ; other Meringues being found under special headings, such as Almonds, Apples, &c. Florentine Meringues. — Cover the bottom of a bakingpan with a sheet of puff paste rolled out very thin, spread some jelly or any kind of preserve over it, and cover all with Meringue-paste mixed with finely-chopped almonds or desiccated cocoa-nut. Sprinkle it all over with caster sugar, bake gently in a moderate oven, and cut into squares.