FoodNetArchive

The encyclopaedia of practical cookery

1892

Page 398

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
LUNCHEONS.— The origin of this term is enveloped in mystery, certain etymologists believing that it has something to do with a hunch, as a hunch of bread and cheese, and is, therefore, a provincialism for the morning snack that the countryman partakes of in the fields between his breakfast and dinner. Failing any other more classical derivation, this one seems to be peculiarly appropriate, as the more refined Luncheon of modern times partakes of some of the irregularities and infor- malities of the countryman’s snack. The hour is not rigidly fixed as for dinner, invitations to the meal are short and informal, the mode of sitting down to it is un- restrained, and the positions at table are immaterial. Luncheons in the open air, such as at sporting meetings, partake of all these informalities in a marked degree, and form a decided connecting link between the Luncheon at home and the countryman’s hunch of bread and cheese or cold bacon. Cheese and cold bacon in the form of ham are notorious Luncheon dishes, and salads would certainly suggest freshly-gathered leaves. There are two forms of Luncheon to which it will be necessary to invite attention, the one in-door and the other out-door. In many respects they may be considered similar, such as in the way of cold viands ; but the in-door Luncheon admits of the greater comfort of a well-laid table, and some little hot service, principally of those things that will not spoil by keeping hot, such as soup and cutlets, or filleted fish, that can be cooked a l’instaut. Soups are not often served at Luncheons ; but they are erroneously excepted, and should be recon- sidered by the givers of Luncheons, as in cold weather they are exceedingly refreshing and agreeable. All cooks like the Luncheon service, because the dishes may be prepared at any time beforehand, and are Luncheons — continued. placed upon the table before the guests, who generally help themselves. Hence, the meats should be boneless, as in galantines, and the sweets should be chiefly for spoon and fork. Fruits are sometimes set upon the table, but more often they grace the sideboard; beer, sherry, claret, burgundy, still wines, or champagne are all admissible — champagne-and-oyster Luncheons forming a favourite bachelor festival. The style or mode of laying the table is not of the very greatest moment, provided the sideboard be well supplied, and this will, of course, suggest that it is at all times better for the guests that servants should be in attendance. It is strange that amongst no other people in the world is Luncheon treated with the same favour as it is by the British. In France and Germany it is the “ second breakfast.” French cooks, practising in England, having no adequate term for our Luncheon, have styled the meal “ dejeuner a la fourcliette,” which has not a single quality to recommend it for our adoption. Throughout this Encyclopaedia will be found numerous dishes that are suitable for Luncheons. MACARONI (Fr. Macaroni ; Gee. Makaronie ; Bp. Macarron). — A preparation of very fine wheat-flour and water, originally made in Italy, but, on account of the