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Thrust the needle into the meat at one of the side lines, and when it is about half-way through to the top of the piece, press the steel slightly with the thumb and fore-finger, to hold the lardoon in place till it has entered the meat. Then push the needle through to the top, and gently draw it out, leaving about jin. of the strip exposed at both the side and upper part of the meat. That part of the pork which is hidden should be Jin. under the surface. Continue until all the rows are filled with lardoons. Two rows are enough for a fillet of beef ; if the strips are too large for the needle they will be pressed out when the needle enters the meat. LARDOONS (Fr. Lardons).— Strips of bacon-fat used in Larding. LARKS (Fr. Mauviettes or Alouettes ; Ger. Lerehen). — These birds, of the genus Alauda, are so highly esteemed for their “ singing in heaven’s vaults ” that the notion For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Sauces, <ic., referred to, see under their special heads. Larks — continued. of converting them into culinary dishes is regarded with great disfavour. It may be a consolation to know that the great bulk of small birds sold in our shops as Larks, are not always sky-Larks, but more often field- Larks, fieldfares, and wheatears. They have been recognised amongst table delicacies from the days of Rome’s empire, and probably long before that; but it is to the French cook that we are indebted for the present perfection of their cooking. Baked Larks. — Singe and cut the wings and legs of the required quantity of Larks at the first joint, and remove the gizzards. Run four small wooden skewers through each I, ark, put them in a flat stewpan with a lump of butter, sprinkle with a little salt, fry over a sharp fire for three minutes, then sprinkle breadcrumbs over them ; place the cover on the stewpan, put some live embers on the top, and leave on a slow fire till cooked. Drain the Larks, take out the skewers, arrange in two rows on a hot dish, pour the breadcrumbs-and-butter over them, and serve. Baked stuffed Larks. — Clean and draw ten Larks, and prepare the following stuffing : Free the white flesh of a cold chicken from skin and bone, chop finely, and mix it with 2oz. of finely-chopped ham and raw fat bacon, a small quantity of chopped sage and pounded mace, and salt and pepper to taste. When well mixed, stuff the birds with half of the forcemeat. Cut ten slices of bacon, spread over the remainder of the forcemeat, put a Lark on each, roll them up and bind round with tape, or secure the bacon with a small skewer. Lay them side by side in a baking-dish, cover, and bake in a moderate oven. Heat a sufficient quantity of rich veal gravy and flavour it with lemon-juice. When the Larks are cooked, place them on a hot dish, pour the gravy round, garnish with slices of lemon, and serve. Ballotines of Larks. — Bone the required quantity of Larks (see BONING), fill them with chicken forcemeat, put a truffle turned to a ball shape in each Lark, and fold them round it. Tie each Lark up in a small cloth, and braise them in Madeira and mirepoix. Put a cake of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, take the cloths off the Larks, arrange them Fig. 1045. Ballotines of Larks.