The encyclopædia of practical cookery

be, excepting for the sake of the order and discipline set down for the working of this Encyclopaedia, which must be sustained throughout as an example to the race of culinary bibliographers, who appear to revel in exceptional irregularities. But there is one good reason why Calf’s Kidneys are styled “Veal,” and that is because they are generally cooked and served with the loin, whereas sheep’s kidneys find their way most frequently into special dishes, or are cooked separately, and sometimes substituted for Calf’s. Baked Calf’s Kidney. — Trim off the skin and fat from a Calf’s Kidney, and cut it lengthwise into halves. Sift some finely-grated breadcrumbs in 1 lb. of pork-sausage meat, and a small quantity of chopped truffles ; season them with pepper and salt, and bind with a beaten egg. Spread the mixture over the halves of kidneys, and wrap them in pieces of pigs’ caul, allowing room for the forcemeat to swell a little. Put the kidney in a baking-tin, baste it with butter, and bake for three-quarters-of-an-hour, or more, according to the size, basting frequently with the butter in the tin. Put 2oz. of butter in a stewpan with 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir it over the fire till browned ; stir in a little more than 1 teacupful of stock, and boil. Skim the fat off the sauce, pour in 1 wineglassful of sherry, and boil up again. Cut the halves of kidneys into slices, arrange them overlapping each other on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve. Fig. 312. Calf’s Kidney for Broiling. Broiled Calf’s Kidney a la Maitre d’Hotel. — Cut a Calf’s Kidney in halves lengthwise ; beat it lightly, dust a little salt and pepper over, and dip each piece in butter that has been slightly warmed. Thickly coat the pieces of kidney with the butter, and broil them over a clear fire, allowing from four to five minutes for each side. Put 2oz. of butter in a basin, season it with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt ; squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and work it near the fire till warm, but it must not be oiled. Put the maitre-d'hôtel butter on a dish, place the pieces of kidney over it, and serve. Calf’s Kidneys a la Breton. — Finely chop four large onions, put them in a saucepan with a bay-leaf and a lump of butter, and fry till nicely browned. Dredge a little salt, pepper, and flour over the onions, add 1 pinch of sugar, pour in £ pint of gravy, and boil them gently till cooked. Cut two Calf’s Kidneys in slices, and season with salt and pepper ; put them in a frying-pan with a lump of butter, and fry over a quick fire. When the kidneys are cooked, take the pan off the fire, pour a small quantity of glaze and a little lemon-juice over them, and sprinkle in a little chopped parsley ; toss them about well till all the slices are covered. Arrange the slices in a circle on a hot dish, and fill the centre with the chopped onions. Garnish with croutons of fried bread that have been brushed over with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze, and serve.