The encyclopædia of practical cookery

A notion prevails amongst a few unenlightened persons that this soup requires, as a sine qua non, an old cock for its correct manufacture ; but this is not the case, for if the bird be not a young one it is better left out, and some other meat, such as veal or lean pork, substituted. Then, again, the leek element may be in excess for some tastes — indeed, it very often is — but this is due to a misconception of the meaning of the term “leekie,” that is, if the English origin of the dish be accepted ; for the word lachi or leachi, following the “ ma ” in malachi, does not refer to leeks, but to a “ slice.” Latterly, in Scotland, the prunes have been omitted, which, perhaps, may be due to an opinion expressed by Talleyrand in favour of the soup, but advising that if the prunes were boiled in it they should not be served. Soyer wrote : “With all due respect to Scotch cookery, I will always give the preference in the way of soup to their Cock-a-Leekie, even before their inimitable hotch-potch,” a remark that, apart from the acknowledged excellence of these two, and many other Scottish dishes, was probably written during, or in memory of, a visit to the Land o’ Cakes ; for Soyer rarely praised any other dishes than his own — and, perhaps, in this case he was referring to his personal preparation. The following receipts are modern : Cock-a-Leekie. — Finely chop 41b. or 51b. of shin of beef, put it into a saucepan with 3galls. of cold water, and boil until a rich liquor is obtained ; strain this into a saucepan, pouring it over a roasted capon or fowl, and boil for three or four minutes ; put in lib. of blanched leeks, well cleaned and cut into inch lengths, and boil for half-an-hour longer. Take out the bird, bone it and chop it up, return it to the pan, add another pound of leeks, season with salt and pepper, and boil again until the leeks are done and the soup is quite thick. Serve hot. Mock Cock-a-Leekie. — Put 21b. of lean veal into a saucepan with lgall. of water, and a seasoning of mace, cloves, and celery-seed tied up in a muslin bag, and boil for fully two hours. Take out the veal, cut it up into small pieces, put it back in the saucepan, together with three or four leeks well washed and finely chopped, and boil for half-an-hour longer ; grate in a potato, boil for a quarter of an hour, remove the bag of seasoning, and add salt and pepper to taste. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve as hot as possible. A few pieces of toast may be floated in it. COCKS’ COMBS (Fr. Crêtes de Coqs).— Artistic cooks, especially those of Continental education, lay great store by blanched Cocks’ Combs for decorating purposes, hence in France they are carefully collected and preserved. In British cookery they are just those parts that are thrown away with the offal. It is the great trouble and pains required to prepare them that seems to appal the ordinary cook, for whose gratification it may be well to state that bottled Cocks’ Combs, which may be purchased of any charcutier are quite as good as those personally prepared — perhaps better — as it is no easy matter to clear the tissue of blood. The following in- For details respecting Culinary Processes, Utensils, Cocks’ Combs — continued. structions for blanching Cocks’ Combs, and otherwise preparing them for use, have been supplied by a very distinguished chef.