The exportation of Caviare forms an important branch of commerce in those parts which centre round Astrakhan, and there is also some produced along the shores of the Sea of Azov ; but this is not so good as that from the shores of the Caspian. Excellent Caviare is extensively manufactured in Norway, too, especially in the neighbour- hood of Bergen, but, as it is generally flavoured with cloves, it is readily distinguishable from the Russian make. A black Caviare of a particularly delicate flavour comes from Hamburg. In spite of its great reputation and costly rarity, a liking for Caviare is but an acquired taste after all, and one that the average Englishman is very slow to develop. The Russians are the first in order of great Caviare con- sumers, and then come Orientals generally ; but in France it is not so much favoured, although imported largely, principally to send on to Italy and Germany in the way of trade. Those who are uninitiated into the beauties of Caviare, pronounce it to be oily, indigestible, unwhole- some, and exceedingly disagreeable to the taste ; but epicures find flavours in the concoction that are unappre- ciated by the rest of mankind. 2 g 2 Sauces , &c.t referred to, see under their special heads. 324 THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY. Caviare — continued. The best Caviare is undoubtedly that prepared from the roe of the sterlet, or young sturgeon, which in Russia is carefully collected and preserved for the Imperial table. Caviare is generally known as d’ilcra, signifying “ eggs,” and consists of four different kinds. (1) Caviare Grenu (grained). — This is prepared by collecting the eggs in a sieve, and cleaning by passing a steady current of water through them, stirring freely so as to thoroughly wash them all. Then they are left to soak for an hour or so in strong brine, and after- wards drained off through a tammy-cloth. This kind of Caviare is reckoned the best and most expensive, and requires to be eaten quite fresh. (2) Caviare Compacti (solid). — The mode of prepara- tion is somewhat the same as the grained ; the eggs, when soaking in the brine, being kneaded with the hands to make them soft. They are then put, 41b. or so at a time, in strong silk bags, which are twisted tightly until all the brine is squeezed out, and the Caviare is dry. In this condition, it is packed in barrels for exportation. (3) Dried Caviare. — Another kind, prepared by brin- ing the eggs as soon as they are deposited by the fish, leaving them for six or seven hours piled up in barrels, straining them from the brine, salting again, again drying and laying them in the sun to harden. (4) Red Caviare. — This is a very inferior quality, made from the roe of any fish, such as the grey mullet, or sea carp, caught in the North Sea. A very excellent Caviare, that commands general favour, can be prepared and served as follows :

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The exportation of Caviare forms an important branch of commerce in those parts which centre round Astrakhan, and there is also some produced along the shores of the Sea of Azov ; but this is not so good as that from the shores of the Caspian. Excellent Caviare is extensively manufactured in Norway, too, especially in the neighbourhood of Bergen, but, as it is generally flavoured with cloves, it is readily distinguishable from the Russian make. A black Caviare of a particularly delicate flavour comes from Hamburg. In spite of its great reputation and costly rarity, a liking for Caviare is but an acquired taste after all, and one that the average Englishman is very slow to develop. The Russians are the first in order of great Caviare consumers, and then come Orientals generally ; but in France it is not so much favoured, although imported largely, principally to send on to Italy and Germany in the way of trade. Those who are uninitiated into the beauties of Caviare, pronounce it to be oily, indigestible, unwholesome, and exceedingly disagreeable to the taste ; but epicures find flavours in the concoction that are unappreciated by the rest of mankind. 2 g 2 Sauces , &c.t referred to, see under their special heads. Caviare — continued. The best Caviare is undoubtedly that prepared from the roe of the sterlet, or young sturgeon, which in Russia is carefully collected and preserved for the Imperial table. Caviare is generally known as Ikra, signifying "eggs," and consists of four different kinds. (1) Caviare Grenu (grained). — This is prepared by collecting the eggs in a sieve, and cleaning by passing a steady current of water through them, stirring freely so as to thoroughly wash them all. Then they are left to soak for an hour or so in strong brine, and afterwards drained off through a tammy-cloth. This kind of Caviare is reckoned the best and most expensive, and requires to be eaten quite fresh. (2) Caviare Compacti (solid). — The mode of preparation is somewhat the same as the grained ; the eggs, when soaking in the brine, being kneaded with the hands to make them soft. They are then put, 41b. or so at a time, in strong silk bags, which are twisted tightly until all the brine is squeezed out, and the Caviare is dry. In this condition, it is packed in barrels for exportation. (3) Dried Caviare. — Another kind, prepared by brining the eggs as soon as they are deposited by the fish, leaving them for six or seven hours piled up in barrels, straining them from the brine, salting again, again drying and laying them in the sun to harden. (4) Red Caviare. — This is a very inferior quality, made from the roe of any fish, such as the grey mullet, or sea carp, caught in the North Sea. A very excellent Caviare, that commands general favour, can be prepared and served as follows :

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