Both these preparations, which belong to the province of the pork-butcher, may be found on the market. The rillettes are served in their pots, and are always sent to the table very cold. 379—RED MULLET A L’ORIENTALE Select small ones, as far as possible. Place them in an oiled pan, and add peeled and concassed tomatoes, parsley- root, fennel, thyme, bay, a little garlic, peppercorns, coriander, and saffron, the latter being the dominating ingredient. Cover the whole with white wine; salt moderately✪ Red Mullet A l'Orientale, set to boil, and then leave to poach on the side of the fire for twelve or eighteen minutes, in accordance with the size of the mullet. Leave the fish to cool in their cooking-liquor, and serve them with a little of the latter and a few slices of peeled lemon. 380—SARDINES The various kinds of sardines for hors-d’ceuvres may be found on the market. 381—SALADS Salads for hors-d’ceuvres may consist of an endless diversity of products, and their preparation varies so that it would be 160 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY impossible to prescribe fixed rules for the latter. I shall there- fore restrict myself to saying merely that they should be made as light and as sightly as possible, in order that they may be in keeping with the general idea and purpose of hors-d’ceuvre. 382—GOTHA AND MILAN SALAMI Cut these into very thin slices, and place them, one on top of the other, on a hors-d’ceuvre dish, in the form of a crown, with a sprig of curled-leaf parsley in the middle. They may also be laid flat upon a litter of parsley. 383—ARLES, BOLOGNE OR LARGE LYONS SAUSAGES Cut these up and arrange them like the Salami. 384—FOIE-GRAS SAUSAGES Cut into thin roundels and dish up with chopped aspic jelly as a centre-garnish. 385—_SMOKED SALMON Cut into triangular, thin slices; roll these into cones, and arrange in the form of a crown with curled-leaf parsley in the middle. 386—SPRATS These are smoked sardines. Select the very fleshy ones, for there exist many kinds, a few of which are dry and quite flavourless. In order to prepare them, suppress the heads and remove or leave on the skins, in accordance with the consumer’s taste. Put them on a dish with some finely-chopped shallots, chopped parsley, and oil and vinegar✪ Sprats, using a very little of each in- gredient. Leave them to marinade for five or six hours, taking care to turn them over from time to time so as to thoroughly saturate them with the marinade. 387—TARTLETS AND BARQUETTES These articles play an important part in the service of hors- d’ceuvres, and represent the class I designated under the name of Frivolities. The garnishes suitable for tartlets are likewise used with barqueties, the latter only differing from the former in their shape. The directions which follow below, and which should be carefully noted, apply equally to both. HORS-D’GEUVRES 161 Special Paste for Tartlets and Barquettes.—Sift one lb. of flour on to a mixing-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put one-eighth oz. of salt, one-half lb. of cold, melted butter, one egg, the yolks of two, and a few drops of water✪ Special Paste for Tartlets and Barquettes. Mix the whole into a paste, handling it as little as possible; roll it into a ball, and put it aside in the cool for two hours. The Preparation of Tartlet- and Barquette-crusts.—Roll out the paste to the thickness of one-eighth inch, and stamp it with an indented fancy-cutter into pieces of the same size as the tartlet-moulds to be used, which in this case are the same as for “* petits fours,’’ and, therefore, very small.

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Both these preparations, which belong to the province of the pork-butcher, may be found on the market. The rillettes are served in their pots, and are always sent to the table very cold. 379—RED MULLET A L’ORIENTALE Select small ones, as far as possible. Place them in an oiled pan, and add peeled and concassed tomatoes, parsley- root, fennel, thyme, bay, a little garlic, peppercorns, coriander, and saffron, the latter being the dominating ingredient. Cover the whole with white wine; salt moderately, set to boil, and then leave to poach on the side of the fire for twelve or eighteen minutes, in accordance with the size of the mullet. Leave the fish to cool in their cooking-liquor, and serve them with a little of the latter and a few slices of peeled lemon. 380—SARDINES The various kinds of sardines for hors-d’ceuvres may be found on the market. 381—SALADS Salads for hors-d’ceuvres may consist of an endless diversity of products, and their preparation varies so that it would be 160 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY impossible to prescribe fixed rules for the latter. I shall there- fore restrict myself to saying merely that they should be made as light and as sightly as possible, in order that they may be in keeping with the general idea and purpose of hors-d’ceuvre. 382—GOTHA AND MILAN SALAMI Cut these into very thin slices, and place them, one on top of the other, on a hors-d’ceuvre dish, in the form of a crown, with a sprig of curled-leaf parsley in the middle. They may also be laid flat upon a litter of parsley. 383—ARLES, BOLOGNE OR LARGE LYONS SAUSAGES Cut these up and arrange them like the Salami. 384—FOIE-GRAS SAUSAGES Cut into thin roundels and dish up with chopped aspic jelly as a centre-garnish. 385—_SMOKED SALMON Cut into triangular, thin slices; roll these into cones, and arrange in the form of a crown with curled-leaf parsley in the middle. 386—SPRATS These are smoked sardines. Select the very fleshy ones, for there exist many kinds, a few of which are dry and quite flavourless. In order to prepare them, suppress the heads and remove or leave on the skins, in accordance with the consumer’s taste. Put them on a dish with some finely-chopped shallots, chopped parsley, and oil and vinegar, using a very little of each in- gredient. Leave them to marinade for five or six hours, taking care to turn them over from time to time so as to thoroughly saturate them with the marinade. 387—TARTLETS AND BARQUETTES These articles play an important part in the service of hors- d’ceuvres, and represent the class I designated under the name of Frivolities. The garnishes suitable for tartlets are likewise used with barqueties, the latter only differing from the former in their shape. The directions which follow below, and which should be carefully noted, apply equally to both. HORS-D’GEUVRES 161 Special Paste for Tartlets and Barquettes.—Sift one lb. of flour on to a mixing-board; make a hole in the centre, into which put one-eighth oz. of salt, one-half lb. of cold, melted butter, one egg, the yolks of two, and a few drops of water. Mix the whole into a paste, handling it as little as possible; roll it into a ball, and put it aside in the cool for two hours. The Preparation of Tartlet- and Barquette-crusts.—Roll out the paste to the thickness of one-eighth inch, and stamp it with an indented fancy-cutter into pieces of the same size as the tartlet-moulds to be used, which in this case are the same as for “* petits fours,’’ and, therefore, very small.

A guide to modern cookery