The swilling can in any case only produce a very small quan-
tity of gravy, consequently, when it happens that a greater
quantity is required, the need is met beforehand by preparing
a stock made from bones and trimmings of a similar nature to
the roast for which the gravy is required. The procedure for
this is as follows :—
Place the bones and trimmings in a pan with a little fat and
literally roast them. Then transfer them to a saucepan, moisten
so as to cover with tepid, slightly-salted water, and add thereto
the swillings of the pan wherein they were roasted. Boil, skim,
and set to cook gently for three or four hours, according to the
nature of the products used. This done, almost entirely remove
the grease, strain through muslin, and put aside for the purpose
of swilling the dripping- or baking-pan of the roast.
Swilling.—Having removed the roast from the spit or oven,
take off a portion of the grease from the baking- or dripping-
pan, and pour into it the required quantity of prepared
gravy. Reduce the whole by half, strain through muslin, and
almost entirely remove grease.
It is a mistake to remove all the grease from, and to clarify,
the gravy of roasts. Treated thus they are certainly clearer and
more sightly, but a large proportion of their savour is lost, and
it should be borne in mind that the gravy of a roast is not a
consommé.
In the matter of roast feathered game, the accompanying
gravy is supplied by the swilling of the utensil, either with water
or a small quantity of brandy. This is a certain means of
obtaining a gravy whose savour is precisely that of the game;
but occasionally veal gravy is used, as its flavour is neutral,
LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS {19
and it therefore cannot impair the particular flavour of the
reduced game gravy lying on the bottom of the utensil. The
use of stock prepared from the bones and trimmings of game
similar to that constituting the dish is also common.
2506—THE DRESSING AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF ROASTS
As a rule, a roast ought not to wait. It ought only to leave
the spit or oven in order to be served. All! roasts should be
placed on very hot dishes, slightly besprinkled with fresh
butter, and surrounded by bunches of watercress (this is op-
tional). The gravy is invariably served separately.
Roasts of butcher’s meat and poultry are dished up as simply
as possible.
Small roasted game may be dished up on fried slices of bread
crumb masked with gratin stuffing (No. 202).
When lemons accompany a roast, they should be served
separately. Pieces of lemon that have once served to garnish
a dish must not be used, for they have mostly been tainted by
grease.
The medizval custom of dishing game with the plumage
has been abandoned.
Roast feathered game 4 l’anglaise is dished up with or
without potato chips, and the three adjuncts are gravy, bread-
crumbs, and bread-sauce.
In northern countries game roasts are always accompanied
either by slightly sugared stewed apples, or by cherry or apricot
jam.
257—GRILLS
Those culinary preparations effected by means of grilling
belong to the order called cooking by concentration. And,
indeed, in almost all cases, the great object of these operations,
I might even say the greatest object, is the concentration, in
the centre, of the juices and essences which represent, most
essentially, the nutritive principles of the products cooked.
A grill, which is, in short, but a roast on an open fire, stands,
in my opinion, as the remote starting-point, the very genesis
of our art.
It was the primeval notion of our forefathers’ infantile
brains; it was progress born of an instinctive desire to eat with
greater pleasure; and it was the first culinary method ever
employed.
Page 73
Presented as published in 1909. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The swilling can in any case only produce a very small quantity of gravy, consequently, when it happens that a greater quantity is required, the need is met beforehand by preparing a stock made from bones and trimmings of a similar nature to the roast for which the gravy is required. The procedure for this is as follows :—
Place the bones and trimmings in a pan with a little fat and literally roast them. Then transfer them to a saucepan, moisten so as to cover with tepid, slightly-salted water, and add thereto the swillings of the pan wherein they were roasted. Boil, skim, and set to cook gently for three or four hours, according to the nature of the products used. This done, almost entirely remove the grease, strain through muslin, and put aside for the purpose of swilling the dripping- or baking-pan of the roast.
Swilling.—Having removed the roast from the spit or oven, take off a portion of the grease from the baking- or drippingpan, and pour into it the required quantity of prepared gravy. Reduce the whole by half, strain through muslin, and almost entirely remove grease.
It is a mistake to remove all the grease from, and to clarify, the gravy of roasts. Treated thus they are certainly clearer and more sightly, but a large proportion of their savour is lost, and it should be borne in mind that the gravy of a roast is not a consommé.
In the matter of roast feathered game, the accompanying gravy is supplied by the swilling of the utensil, either with water or a small quantity of brandy. This is a certain means of obtaining a gravy whose savour is precisely that of the game; but occasionally veal gravy is used, as its flavour is neutral,
and it therefore cannot impair the particular flavour of the reduced game gravy lying on the bottom of the utensil. The use of stock prepared from the bones and trimmings of game similar to that constituting the dish is also common.
256—THE DRESSING AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF ROASTS
As a rule, a roast ought not to wait. It ought only to leave the spit or oven in order to be served. All! roasts should be placed on very hot dishes, slightly besprinkled with fresh butter, and surrounded by bunches of watercress (this is optional). The gravy is invariably served separately.
Roasts of butcher’s meat and poultry are dished up as simply as possible.
Small roasted game may be dished up on fried slices of bread crumb masked with gratin stuffing (No. 202).
When lemons accompany a roast, they should be served separately. Pieces of lemon that have once served to garnish a dish must not be used, for they have mostly been tainted by grease.
The medieval custom of dishing game with the plumage has been abandoned.
Roast feathered game 4 l’anglaise is dished up with or without potato chips, and the three adjuncts are gravy, breadcrumbs, and bread-sauce.
In northern countries game roasts are always accompanied either by slightly sugared stewed apples, or by cherry or apricot jam.
257—GRILLS
Those culinary preparations effected by means of grilling belong to the order called cooking by concentration. And, indeed, in almost all cases, the great object of these operations, I might even say the greatest object, is the concentration, in the centre, of the juices and essences which represent, most essentially, the nutritive principles of the products cooked.
A grill, which is, in short, but a roast on an open fire, stands, in my opinion, as the remote starting-point, the very genesis of our art.
It was the primeval notion of our forefathers’ infantile brains; it was progress born of an instinctive desire to eat with greater pleasure; and it was the first culinary method ever employed.