214—THE DIVIDING-UP OF ROYALES When the poaching is done take the mould or moulds out of water, and leave the royale to cool in them. Do not turn out the moulds whilst the preparation is hot, as it would surely scatter. It only assumes the necessary solidity for being divided up by means of the aggregation and contraction of its various constituents during the cooling process. If the royale has been poached in small moulds, slightly trim the cylinders of royale, divide them up laterally into discs, and stamp them uniformly with a plain or indented fancy cutter. If the royale has been poached in large moulds, withdraw it from these, and place it on a serviette; trim the tops, cut into half-inch slices, and stamp with small, fancy cutters of different shapes. These little divisions of royale must always be stamped very neatly and quite regularly. 215—CHIFFONADE The name ‘‘ Chiffonade’’ is given to a mince of sorrel or lettuce, intended as a complement for such soups as ‘‘ Potage de santé,”’ “‘ le Germiny,’’ &c., or various clear consommeés like - Julienne: 7” To prepare Chiffonade, first carefully shred the sorrel or lettuce, and remove therefrom all the leaf-ribs.. Carefully wash the leaves, and squeeze the latter tightly between the fingers of the left hand and the table. Now cut them into fine strips with a sharp knife. If the chiffonade be intended for a consommé, add it to the latter half an hour before dishing up; it is thus actually cooked in the soup itself. If, as is most often the case, it be intended for a thick soup, it is better to let it melt well in butter, to moisten it with a little consommé, and to let it boil for ten minutes before adding it to the soup. Whatever the purpose be for which it is made, chiffonade should always be prepared with very tender sorrel or lettuce. go GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY 216—DIRECTIONS FOR SOUP WITH PASTES Vermicelli and the various Italian pastes should measure about three oz. per quart of consommé. They should first be thrown into boiling, salted water, where they are left to poach for three minutes, whereupon they are drained, cooled, and their cooking is completed in the consommé. The parboiling of these pastes is necessary in order to get rid of the little agglomerations of flour which adhere to them, and which would otherwise make the consommé cloudy. Tapioca, sago, salep, &c., should also be apportioned at about three oz. per quart. But this is only an average, for the quality of this kind of products varies greatly, and it is best to choose the goods of an excellent maker, and, in order to avoid surprises, to abide by that choice. These products need no parboiling; they are merely sprinkled into the boiling consommé while stirring the latter, and they are left to cook until the soup is quite clear. The boiling should be gentle, and the scum should be removed as often as it forms. The time allowed for cooking naturally varies in accord- ance with the quality of the goods, but the absolute trans- parency of the consommé is an infallible sign of its having been completed. Brazilian, Japanese, and other pearls are used in the same quantities, but they should poach for thirty minutes if required to be very transparent. 217—THREADED EGGS Beat up three eggs in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and strain through a sieve. Now pour the eggs into a fine strainer, hold same over a sautépan containing some boiling consommé, and shift it about in such wise as to let the egg fall in threads into the boiling liquid beneath, and thus imme- diately coagulate. Drain the egg-threads very carefully lest they break. 218—PROFITEROLLES FOR SOUPS These consist of little choux about the size of a large hazel- nut, stuffed with some kinds of purée, such as that of foie gras with cream, or of chicken, or of vegetables, &c. Four pro- fiterolles should be allowed for each person.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

214—THE DIVIDING-UP OF ROYALES When the poaching is done take the mould or moulds out of water, and leave the royale to cool in them. Do not turn out the moulds whilst the preparation is hot, as it would surely scatter. It only assumes the necessary solidity for being divided up by means of the aggregation and contraction of its various constituents during the cooling process. If the royale has been poached in small moulds, slightly trim the cylinders of royale, divide them up laterally into discs, and stamp them uniformly with a plain or indented fancy cutter. If the royale has been poached in large moulds, withdraw it from these, and place it on a serviette; trim the tops, cut into half-inch slices, and stamp with small, fancy cutters of different shapes. These little divisions of royale must always be stamped very neatly and quite regularly. 215—CHIFFONADE The name ‘‘ Chiffonade’’ is given to a mince of sorrel or lettuce, intended as a complement for such soups as ‘‘ Potage de santé,”’ “‘ le Germiny,’’ &c., or various clear consommeés like - Julienne: 7” To prepare Chiffonade, first carefully shred the sorrel or lettuce, and remove therefrom all the leaf-ribs.. Carefully wash the leaves, and squeeze the latter tightly between the fingers of the left hand and the table. Now cut them into fine strips with a sharp knife. If the chiffonade be intended for a consommé, add it to the latter half an hour before dishing up; it is thus actually cooked in the soup itself. If, as is most often the case, it be intended for a thick soup, it is better to let it melt well in butter, to moisten it with a little consommé, and to let it boil for ten minutes before adding it to the soup. Whatever the purpose be for which it is made, chiffonade should always be prepared with very tender sorrel or lettuce. 216—DIRECTIONS FOR SOUP WITH PASTES Vermicelli and the various Italian pastes should measure about three oz. per quart of consommé. They should first be thrown into boiling, salted water, where they are left to poach for three minutes, whereupon they are drained, cooled, and their cooking is completed in the consommé. The parboiling of these pastes is necessary in order to get rid of the little agglomerations of flour which adhere to them, and which would otherwise make the consommé cloudy. Tapioca, sago, salep, &c., should also be apportioned at about three oz. per quart. But this is only an average, for the quality of this kind of products varies greatly, and it is best to choose the goods of an excellent maker, and, in order to avoid surprises, to abide by that choice. These products need no parboiling; they are merely sprinkled into the boiling consommé while stirring the latter, and they are left to cook until the soup is quite clear. The boiling should be gentle, and the scum should be removed as often as it forms. The time allowed for cooking naturally varies in accordance with the quality of the goods, but the absolute transparency of the consommé is an infallible sign of its having been completed. Brazilian, Japanese, and other pearls are used in the same quantities, but they should poach for thirty minutes if required to be very transparent. 217—THREADED EGGS Beat up three eggs in a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and strain through a sieve. Now pour the eggs into a fine strainer, hold same over a sautépan containing some boiling consommé, and shift it about in such wise as to let the egg fall in threads into the boiling liquid beneath, and thus immediately coagulate. Drain the egg-threads very carefully lest they break. 218—PROFITEROLLES FOR SOUPS These consist of little choux about the size of a large hazelnut, stuffed with some kinds of purée, such as that of foie gras with cream, or of chicken, or of vegetables, &c. Four profiterolles should be allowed for each person.

A guide to modern cookery