A guide to modern cookery

With this class of stewed fruits, which are merely a matter of fancy and taste, candied and preserved fruits are almost always used as auxiliary constituents. 29054—JAMS Under this generic title the following preparations are classed :— (1) Those in which the fruit is treated directly with the sugar :— (2) Those in which the juice alone, owing to its gelatinous nature, produces, together with the sugar, consistent jellies. The amount of sugar used is subject to the nature of the fruit and its sweetness ; but in the case of nearly all tart fruits, the weight of sugar should equal that of the fruit, or nearly so. If too much sugar be used, the flavour is impaired ; while crystallisation will follow very shortly afterwards ; if too little be used, the jam has to be overcooked in order to be made sufficiently consistent, and the flavour is once more impaired by protracted evaporation ; finally if the time allowed for cooking be inadequate, rapid fermentation will be the result. In making jam, therefore, the operator should base his measure of sugar upon the nature of the fruit he intends treating. 2955—THE COOKING, POTTING, AND SEALING OF JAMS The time allowed for cooking any jam whatsoever can only be approximately decided, and it is a gross mistake to suppose the case otherwise, since the matter is wholly dependent upon the intensity of the fire, and the resulting speed of the evaporation of the vegetable moisture. Theoretically, a jam is all the better for having been cooked quickly, seeing that it may thus more easily preserve its colour and flavour. For all that, unless great careand attention be exercised, a wholefruit jam ought not to be made on a too violent fire, lest it burn. Conversely, when jellies are in question, wherein the juice alone of the fruit is treated, the fire should be as intense as possible ; in order that the required degree of consistence, which marks the close of the operation, may be reached as speedily as possible. The degree of consistence is the same for all jellies, and may be ascertained thus: when the steam given off by the preparation loses its density, and the boiling movement becomes perceptible, it may be concluded that evaporation has ceased, and that the real cooking-process, which is very rapid, has begun. At this stage frequently take the skimmer out of the saucepan. The jam adhering to it falls off, at first very quickly ; then, in a few minutes, it is seen to accumulate towards the centre of the skimmer and to fall therefrom slowly at lengthy intervals, in large drops. This stage, which is indubitably indicative of the cooking being at an end, is called the "appé" and is equivalent to the large thread stage in the cooking of sugar; and, as soon as it is reached the jam should be taken off the fire. Allow it to cool for seven or eight minutes, and pour it into pots, which, if of glass, should be gradually heated, lest they crack. The following day, set a round piece of white paper saturated with rectified glycerine, on each pot, and drop these pieces of paper directly upon the jam. Rectified glycerine will be found preferable by far to the commonly-used sugared brandy. Then close the pots with a double sheet of paper, fastened on with string, and place them somewhere in the dry. 2956—APRICOT JAM Cut the apricots in two, and use very ripe fruit, grown in the open, if possible. Break the stones, skin the almonds, and cut them in two. Allow three-quarters lb. of loaf-sugar per Ib, of fruit. Put this sugar in a preserving pan with one-third pint of water per