A guide to modern cookery

1806—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL VILLENEUVE Carefully clear the meat of the roebuck of all tendons, and chop it up with a knife, combining with it the while the third of its weight of fresh butter, as much bread-crumb, soaked in milk, and pressed, and one-third pint of fresh cream per Ib. of meat. Season, divide into portions weighing two oz., mould to a nice round shape, wrap in pig’s caul, cook quickly at the last moment, and dish in the form of a crown. Coat with Chasseur sauce, and send a 1 timbale of celery purée separately. 1807—NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL WALKYRIE Sauté the noisettes in the usual way, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small quoit of ‘‘ Pommes Berny ’”’ (No. 2184). On each noisette lay a fine, grilled mushroom, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe. Pour a little venison sauce over the dish, and send a sauceboat of it separately. N.B.—Roebuck noisettes and cutlets are still served with purées of chestnuts or celery, with truffles, cépes, mushrooms, &c. The sauces best suited to them are Poivrade sauce and its derivatives, such as Venison sauce, Grand-Veneur sauce, Romaine sauce, &c., also Roberts sauce Escoffier. 1808—CIVET DE CHEVREUIL For ‘‘ Civet de Chevreuil ’’ the shoulders, the neck, and the breast are used, and these pieces are cut up and set to marinade six hours beforehand with the aromatics and the same red wine as that with which the civet will be moistened. When about to prepare the civet, drain and dry these pieces, and proceed exactly as for ‘*‘ Civet de Liévre’’ (No. 1821), except for the thickening by means of blood, which the difficulty of obtaining the blood of the roebuck perforce precludes. This civet, which should be classed among dishes for the home, is usually served in the form of a stew; for, inasmuch as the final thickening with blood is lacking, it can only be an imitation of the civet. When, therefore, hare’s blood is available, it should always be used in finishing this dish exactly after the manner of No. 1821—that is to say, the preparation should be given the characteristic stamp of civet by means of a final thickening with blood. 1809—BOAR AND YOUNG BOAR (SANGLIER ET MARCASSIN) When the wild boar is over two years of age, it is no more fit to be served as food. Between one and two years it should be used with caution, and the various roebuck recipes may then be applied to it. But only the young boar less than twelve months old should be prepared in decent kitchens. The hams of a young boar, salted and smoked, supply a very passable relevé, which allows of varying the ordinary menu. They are treated exactly like pork hams. The saddle and the cushions may be prepared after the recipes given for saddle of roebuck, and the same holds good with the cutlets and the noisettes. Finally, the saddle may be served cold, in a daube, when it is prepared after No. 1173. As the various parts of the young boar are covered with fat, it is understood that they are not larded, nor do they need it. 1810—HARE AND LEVERET (LIEVRE ET LEVRAUT) As a result of one of those freaks of taste, of which I have already pointed out some few examples, hare is not nearly so highly esteemed as it deserves in England; and the fact seems all the more strange when one remembers that in many of her counties excellent specimens of the species are to be found. Whatever be the purpose for which it is required, always select a young hare, five or six lbs. in weight. The age may be ascertained as follows :—Grasp one ear close to its extremity with both hands, and pull in opposite directions; if the ear tear, the beast is young; if it resist the strain, the hare is old, and should be set aside for soups and the preparation of fumets and forcemeats. 1811—LIEVRE FARCI A LA PERIGOURDINE