A guide to modern cookery

The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly and regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most, only do so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the butter from clarifying—not an unusual occurrence when the heat is too fierce. When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover them that they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of light stock or some water to the cooking butter, and set to boil gently for fifteen minutes. When this stock is sufficiently reduced to only half-immerse the pinions, pass it through a fine strainer and clear of some of the grease if necessary; remember, however, that this stock should be somewhat fat. Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine purée of marrons separately. ‘IN N 1722a—DINDONNEAU FROID All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to this bird. Goose (OIE) The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of view lies in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate and firmest foie gras. Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family tables. 1722b—OISON A L’ALLEMANDE Completely bone the gosling’s breast; season it inside, and stuff it with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked in butter. Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat the while. When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with peeled apples, cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in butter, and garnished with red-currant jelly. Drain away threequarters of the grease; swill the braising-pan with the required quantity of good gravy for roasts; strain this gravy, and serve it separately. 1722c—OISON A L’ALSACIENNE Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat ; truss; colour in butter and poéle. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised in goose grease, and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the sauerkraut. 1723—OISON A L’ANGLAISE Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When they are cold, peel them; chop them, and add to them an equal weight of soaked and pressed bread, one oz. of fresh or chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven. Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be somewhat fat, and serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed apples, separately. 1724—OISON EN CIVET When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add the juice of a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation, until it is quite cold. Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for ‘‘ Civet de Liévre” (No. 1821). 1725—OISON AU RAIFORT Braise the gosling. Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the reduced braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream (No. 138), separately. N.B.—Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be prepared like young turkeys, 1t.e., with chestnuts, 4 la Chipolata, en Daube; or with turnips, peas, and ‘“‘en Salmis,”’ like Duck. 1726—FOIE GRAS Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose’s liver is larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the duck. As a rule the former should be selected in preference, more particularly in the matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless, failing goose’s liver, duck’s liver may be used and with very good results when its quality is good. Foies gras are used in the preparation of terrines, raised pies, parfaits and mousses, which are among the most delicate and richest of cold dishes. They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the form of collops or mousseline quenelles. Finally, they may also be served as hot entrées.