A guide to modern cookery

When they are cooked, glaze them -rapidly, and dish them with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal. 1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways; here is a simple way :— Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’ceuvre dishes as there are grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost (i.e., upside down) into each horsd’ceuvre dish; add enough melted aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin. When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’ceuvre dishes with jelly. When about to serve, dip the hors-d’ceuvre dishes into hot water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a crown. Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly. 1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads) Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap. To blanch them (an operation the purpose of which is to harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water. When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours. Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are. Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness. Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in shape. They are: the ‘‘kernel’’ or heart sweetbread, which is the round and most delicate part, and the ‘‘ throat,’’ or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former. In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far as possible. There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz. :—Braising (No. 248), poaching (No. 249), and grilling (No. 259). In the following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill. 1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread.