A guide to modern cookery

From among these garnishes the following may be quoted, viz. :—Bouquetiére, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, A la Vichy, a la Nemours, &c.; Jardiniére, Macédoine, Renaissance, &c. Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c. And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here. I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes. 1199NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool. Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case. If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom. The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving. The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately. 1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACEDOINE Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above. Meanwhile (1) prepare a Macédoine garnish, or mixed Jardiniére (cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles. Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of Macédoine, and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with Macédoine; set thereon another litter of the pieces of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of Macédoine. Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braisingliquor separately. 1201--NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above. Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes. When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing. The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish.