Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed
and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.
In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for
the cooking.
The Dishing and Serving.—After taking the tripe out of
the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the
carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice
withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthen-
ware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from
different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands
or fancies of the various consumers.
When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the
gravy of all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number
of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a bain-
marie, for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or
otherwise.
N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should
be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more
effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-
cook’s oven.
I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan
in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves
of neither special pots nor a baker’s oven.
(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying
the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the
whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid
evaporation of the liquid—a contingency that must be guarded
against, more particularly in a kitchen oven—and to preserve
the whiteness of the tripe.
The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven
were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular
heat, but also wanes regularly.
394 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY
2. VEAL.
With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied
that this meat is considerably less popular in England than
abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in
this country.
Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English
veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and
mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity
may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is incon-
ceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England
undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its
beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while
to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it
may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from
the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland;
and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but
to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads,
&c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior
to that of the English produce.
1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)
Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is
sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is,
in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.
It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the
braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness,
but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.
Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one
side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first
ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a
thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “‘ filets mignons’’;
pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of
it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover
the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn
over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted;
then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon,
and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon
and the flank may not shift. ✪ Selle de Veau à la Chartreuse
Page 228 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1909. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.
In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.
The Dishing and Serving.—After taking the tripe out of the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.
When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a bainmarie, for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.
N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastrycook’s oven.
I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special pots nor a baker’s oven.
(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.
The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but also wanes regularly.
2. VEAL.
With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.
Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.
1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)
Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.
It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.
Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “‘ filets mignons’’; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift.
Records on this page
Selle de Veau à la Chartreuse