The degree of reduction in this sauce is a good third, but,
to be quite certain, a test of its consistence may be made by
allowing it to cool a little. After the reduction, carefully taste,
and rectify the seasoning if necessary; mix a little Madeira or
Port with the sauce, away from the fire, and strain through
muslin or, preferably, through a Venetian-hair sieve. Stir the
sauce now and then while it cools, until it is sufficiently liquid,
and at the same time consistent enough, to coat immersed solids
evenly with a film of sauce. Its use will be explained among
the formulz of the different kinds of Chaud-froids.
26 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY
35—VARIETIES OF THE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
For Ducks.—Prepare the sauce as above, adding to it (for
the prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duck fumet obtained
from the carcases and remains of roast duckling, and finish it,
away from the fire, with the juice of four oranges and a heaped
tablespoonful of orange rind, cut finely, Julienne-fashion, and
scalded for five minutes.
For Feathered Game.—Treat the Chaud-Froid sauce as in-
dicated in No. 34, adding one-half pint of the fumet of the
game constituting the dish in order to lend it that game’s
characteristic taste. Observe the same precaution for the cool-
ing.
For Fish.—Proceed as in No. 34, but (1) substitute the
Espagnole of fish for the half glaze; (2) intensify the first Es-
pagnole with one-half pint of very clear fish essence; (3) use
Lenten jelly instead of meat jelly.
Remarks upon the Use of Chaud-Froid Sauces.—The chaud-
froid sauce may be prepared beforehand, and when it is wanted
it need only be gently melted without heating it too much.
It ought simply to be made sufficiently liquid to give a good
coating to substances immersed in it.
36—DEVILLED SAUCE
Put in a vegetable pan two oz. of sliced shallots and one-
third pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add
one-half pint of half-glaze✪ Devilled Sauce, reduce to two-thirds, season strongly
with cayenne pepper, and strain through muslin. This sauce
may be served with grilled fowls or pigeons. It also forms an
excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat which needs a spicy
sauce. ;
37—‘‘ ESCOFFIER” DEVILLED SAUCE
This sauce, which may be bought ready-made, is admirably
fitted to accompany grilled fish and grills in general. In order
to make it ready, all that is needed is to add its own volume
of fresh butter to it, the latter being previously well softened
so as to ensure its perfect mixture with the sauce.
38—GENEVOISE SAUCE
Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan; insert one lb. of Mire-
poix (No. 228) without bacon. Slightly brown, add two Ibs. of
head of salmon and remains or bones of fish, and stew with
lid on for twenty minutes. Let the stewpan lean slightly to
THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 27
one side, so that the butter may be drained; moisten with one
bottle of excellent red wine; reduce the latter by half; add one
pint of Lenten Espagnole, and allow to cook gently for half an
hour.
Rub the sauce through a sieve, pressing it so as to extract
all the essence. Let it rest awhile; carefully remove the fat
which has risen to the surface, and add one liqueur-glass of
burnt brandy, one-half pint of red wine, and as much fish
fumet✪ Genevoise Sauce. Boil again, then move stewpan to the side of
fire to despumate for one and one-half hours. Frequently re-
move what the ebullition causes to rise to the surface, this
second period of cooking being only to ensure the purification
of the sauce. If the ebullition has been well effected, the sauce
should reach the proper degree of reduction and despumation
at the same moment of time. It is then strained through muslin
or tammy, and it is finished at the last minute with a few drops
of anchovy essence and four oz. of butter per quart of sauce.
Page 21 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1909. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The degree of reduction in this sauce is a good third, but, to be quite certain, a test of its consistence may be made by allowing it to cool a little. After the reduction, carefully taste, and rectify the seasoning if necessary; mix a little Madeira or Port with the sauce, away from the fire, and strain through muslin or, preferably, through a Venetian-hair sieve. Stir the sauce now and then while it cools, until it is sufficiently liquid, and at the same time consistent enough, to coat immersed solids evenly with a film of sauce. Its use will be explained among the formulae of the different kinds of Chaud-froids.
35—VARIETIES OF THE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
For Ducks.—Prepare the sauce as above, adding to it (for the prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duck fumet obtained from the carcases and remains of roast duckling, and finish it, away from the fire, with the juice of four oranges and a heaped tablespoonful of orange rind, cut finely, Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five minutes.
For Feathered Game.—Treat the Chaud-Froid sauce as indicated in No. 34, adding one-half pint of the fumet of the game constituting the dish in order to lend it that game’s characteristic taste. Observe the same precaution for the cooling. For Fish.—Proceed as in No. 34, but (1) substitute the Espagnole of fish for the half glaze; (2) intensify the first Espagnole with one-half pint of very clear fish essence; (3) use Lenten jelly instead of meat jelly.
Remarks upon the Use of Chaud-Froid Sauces.—The chaudfroid sauce may be prepared beforehand, and when it is wanted it need only be gently melted without heating it too much. It ought simply to be made sufficiently liquid to give a good coating to substances immersed in it.
36—DEVILLED SAUCE
Put in a vegetable pan two oz. of sliced shallots and onethird pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half-glaze, reduce to two-thirds, season strongly with cayenne pepper, and strain through muslin. This sauce may be served with grilled fowls or pigeons. It also forms an excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat which needs a spicy sauce. ;
37—‘‘ ESCOFFIER” DEVILLED SAUCE
This sauce, which may be bought ready-made, is admirably fitted to accompany grilled fish and grills in general. In order to make it ready, all that is needed is to add its own volume of fresh butter to it, the latter being previously well softened so as to ensure its perfect mixture with the sauce.
38—GENEVOISE SAUCE
Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan; insert one lb. of Mirepoix (No. 228) without bacon. Slightly brown, add two Ibs. of head of salmon and remains or bones of fish, and stew with lid on for twenty minutes. Let the stewpan lean slightly to
one side, so that the butter may be drained; moisten with one bottle of excellent red wine; reduce the latter by half; add one pint of Lenten Espagnole, and allow to cook gently for half an hour.
Rub the sauce through a sieve, pressing it so as to extract all the essence. Let it rest awhile; carefully remove the fat which has risen to the surface, and add one liqueur-glass of burnt brandy, one-half pint of red wine, and as much fish fumet. Boil again, then move stewpan to the side of fire to despumate for one and one-half hours. Frequently remove what the ebullition causes to rise to the surface, this second period of cooking being only to ensure the purification of the sauce. If the ebullition has been well effected, the sauce should reach the proper degree of reduction and despumation at the same moment of time. It is then strained through muslin or tammy, and it is finished at the last minute with a few drops of anchovy essence and four oz. of butter per quart of sauce.
Records on this page
Devilled SauceGenevoise Sauce