FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 97 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
tion is always effected at the expense of a good deal of flavour, and of course of work, and should be dispensed with by all persons who value taste before appearance. It may be effected as follows : Beat three whites of egg into a froth, and incorporate it with the glace ; add some lemon- juice ; whisk the mixture over the fire until the white of egg is well curdled ; set aside for a quarter of an hour, then strain through a cloth into a basin, and keep for use. In this recipe the browning of the broth, by which it becomes gravy, is effected at two periods — once during the frying of the meat, and a second time during the evapora- tion to a glace of a deep red-brown colour. If six pints of standard broth were used to immerse 14 lb. of meat, and another six to dilute the consomme, there should be obtained eight or ten pints of gravy, supposing the meat to have been pressed in a screw-press. This would be ready for sauces, but for soups would require dilution to a volume of twelve quarts ; each pint would then contain the soluble extract of \ lb. of beef, and the quantity would be suflBcient to yield excellent soup for forty-eight persons. Beef-broth from the Pot-au-Feu of Smaller French Households. The name of iM-au-feu, as used in older French culinary writings, applies to a mixture of various kinds of meat and vegetables all stewed together after the manner of the ancient oille, or olid of the Spaniards. But the name as here used applies to a mixture of beef and vegetables l)oiled with a relatively large amount of water, the main object being evidently the production of a considerable amount of broth to be further developed into soup. We quote recipes in themselves very old, to sliow that they are still in use with all their virtues and faults unaltered; one is for a 2)ot-au-fcu with about 3 lb. of beef, called the lorye ; and rOT-AU-FEU 139 another with lb. of beef, called the, small* We give the quantities in grammes of the original : (a) Larger pot-au-feu : Meat, 1 kilo 500 grni. ; bones, 400 grm. ; water, 8 litres ; salt, 60 grm. ; carrots, 300 grm. ; onions, 300 grm. ; leeks, 400 grm. ; celery, 25 grm. ; cloves, 2 ; turnips, 300 grm. ; parsnips, 50 grm. (h) Small 2^ot-a2ir-feit, : Meat, 750 grm. ; bones, 125 grm., or about the quantity which generally accompanies the meat — that is to say, imposed by the butcher on the pur- chaser; water, 4 litres; salt, 30 grm.; carrots, 150 grm.; onions, 150 grm. ; leeks, 200 grm. ; celery, 10 grm. ; clove, 1 ; turnips, 150 grm. ; parsnips, 25 grm.Beef-broth from the Pot-au-Feu of Smaller French Households Practical Consideration of these Recipes. — We should exclude the bones from both recipes as mere encum- brances and perfectly useless. Now, as 750 grm. of beef in 4,000 grm. of water (or 1| kilos in 8 litres) give a very weak broth, this deficiency has to be covered by the addition of large quantities of vegetables, the sum of the weight of which stands to the weight of the meat in the proportion of 6 to 7. Owing to the large quantity of these vegetable ingredients, the soup will be good to eat notwith- standing its weakness as regards meat-extract, but will be strongly flavoured with onion and leek, and the meat will be much exhausted, and require some tasty garnishings to make it palatable. The small pot-au-fexi is said to be sufficient for four or five persons, or for two or three on two succeed- ing days.