FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 94

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Van Copenael, already mentioned above. The chemical examination was given to Chevreul, and he also was made reporter. D’Arcet resigned his seat on the commission on September 23, 1831, in consequence of differences with his colleagues. Experiments had been made of which the com- mission were left uninformed. Chevreul, who was offended thereby, resigned his post as reporter shortly afterwards. There being then a good understanding between D’Arcet and Magendie, the former was desirous of getting Magendie appointed reporter. This was effected, but science proved stronger than intrigue, and the commission ended in the celebrated report to the effect that gelatine was non- nutritions, because dogs who had only glue to eat died, the devoured gelatine notwithstanding, of starvation. The unanimous report of the commission was read to the Academy on March 19, 1832. The fallacy involved in Magendie’s experiments was discovered only forty years later. Payen made some researches on the gelatinogen (left by hydrochloric acid and called cartilage) of the bones of horses. Just as the fats of different parts of the body have different temperatures of fusibility, so the bones of horses give different amounts and qualities of gelatine j with age the gelatinogenous tissue seems to diminish. Chevreul believed that future generations of readers would be astonished that gelatine should have given rise to such long debates in the Academy. He gives credit to physicians for having been but of one opinion regarding the effect of bouillon cVos on the sick in hospitals. These latter were the only persons on whom this ‘ charity ’ could be inflicted. No person with sound sense and taste, would consent to drink the boicillon cl’os* foregoing follows mainly a discourse delivered by Chevreul in 18/0, and reported in G. Grimaud de Caux’s work, ‘ L'Acaddmie d. Hciences pendant le Siege de P.ari.,’ 18/1. In thi.s discourse Proust’s c aim to the discovery of the true nature of the bouillon d'os was for the 134 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY CHAPTER VII. THE PRACTICE OF PRODUCING BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND CONSOMMES OF BEEF, VEAL, MUTTON, FOWL, AND GAME, AND THEIR USE WITH SOUPS AND SAUCES. General Observations. We have in the previous chapter given the, scientific 'prin- ciples on which all production of hroth for culinary use ought to he based. We have fully described the standard by which all such production should be measured and com- pared, and which may be applied to all recipes used in any kitchen, even to those which are destined to be superseded. The present chapter is a practical supplement to the previous one, inasmuch as it will form a transition to the actual pro- duction of soups and sauces, by giving the actual rules and recipes for the composing of any kind of broth, be it in the smallest household or the largest establishment. They are, of course, given as alternatives to be used on demand, in cases in which the use of extract of meat is for some reason or other excluded. In this relation it must be borne in mind that standard hroth from extract, or an equally strong broth obtained by extracting meat with boiling water directly, is only material for the production of gravy and conso77wi6, which latter when desired for use must under all circumstances be produced in the kitchen, and cannot at present be bought ready-made.