The fat of animal bodies is contained in small sacs of collagenous tissue ; some of these burst during the applica- tion of heat, and the fat is set free ; others of stronger con- struction resist both boiling and roasting for some time, until the envelope is transformed into gelatine ; then the * Voce ‘Worship of Bones.’ ‘ I remember,’ says ‘ Wj-vern ’ (/oc. ci7., p. 27), ‘an article headed “Curry and liice ’’ which once appeared in a London weekly periodical. Judging from the writer’s suggestions as to the cookery of a tin of beef with yams, and, worse still, the fabrication of soup from the fowl-bone^ you picked and left at luncheon, I should say that the periodical had picked up, not only an ignoramus, but an uncleanly igno- ramus, as a contributor.’ BOUILLON, OR MEAT-BROTH 127 fat flows out, and the membrane sinks to the bottom : such browned membranes are termed grcdvcs or grieves. Care should be taken by cooks that the fat which they leave on joints to be roasted or boiled be of good taste ; thus some fat of sheep has naturally a tallowy taste, and requires to be eliminated. The fat of some fishes, e.g., herrings, sprats, has at times a taste of train-oil, which can only be removed by grilling the fish. Vecll contains the least amount of fat, less than one quarter of the weight of the flesh ; a fat ox has from twenty to twenty-five parts of fat upon forty parts of pure muscular tissue, or more than half the weight of the flesh ; a fat sheep has more fat (thirty-two) than flesh (thirty) ; a fat hog similarly will show fat to muscle as forty to thirty-seven. , Of fish, salmon, eels, and sprats are distinguished by much j fat ; cod, turbot, sole, by the minimum of fat as compared to flesh ; the liver of the cod, on the other hand, is very rich in fat. The large marine mammals, such as lohales, are reservoirs of enormous masses of fat, and this becomes the cause of their gradual extinction by man’s hands. A chicken or pheasant may be fattened up so as to contain 10 per cent, of fat ; partridges never have more than,, and seldom as much as, per cent, of fat. Geese, by cramming, can be made to accumulate considerable masses of fat under their skin, in the abdominal cavity, and in the liver. Note on the History of Researches concerning Gelatine and its Use for Food, and of the Romance of the Bouillon d’Os. The earliest scientific note on gelatine occurs in D. Papin’s work.* He obtained gelatine by boiling bones in his digester, i.e., under pressure, and therefore under higher temperatures than that of boiling water ; when the heat was too great the gelatine was weaker, and, as he believed, Papin, Denys, ‘ The Manner of softening Bones and cooking all Sorts of Meat in a Short Time, and at little Cost.’ 1682. 128 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY less nourishing. He obtained gelatine from the jack (fish), but not from the mackerel. Cartilage was dissolved almost entirely, and yielded a strong gelatine. The name gelatina was first employed by Spielmann, in 1766, in his chemical essays,* and in French by Eoussille Chamseru.t The English physician Bostock was the first to estimate the quantity of gelatine required to make water gelatinize ; he found the minimum to be 1 per cent.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The fat of animal bodies is contained in small sacs of collagenous tissue ; some of these burst during the application of heat, and the fat is set free ; others of stronger construction resist both boiling and roasting for some time, until the envelope is transformed into gelatine ; then the * Voce ‘Worship of Bones.’ ‘ I remember,’ says ‘ Wj-vern ’ (/oc. ci7., p. 27), ‘an article headed “Curry and liice ’’ which once appeared in a London weekly periodical. Judging from the writer’s suggestions as to the cookery of a tin of beef with yams, and, worse still, the fabrication of soup from the fowl-bone you picked and left at luncheon, I should say that the periodical had picked up, not only an ignoramus, but an uncleanly ignoramus, as a contributor.’ fat flows out, and the membrane sinks to the bottom : such browned membranes are termed gravy or grieves. Care should be taken by cooks that the fat which they leave on joints to be roasted or boiled be of good taste ; thus some fat of sheep has naturally a tallowy taste, and requires to be eliminated. The fat of some fishes, e.g., herrings, sprats, has at times a taste of train-oil, which can only be removed by grilling the fish. Veal contains the least amount of fat, less than one quarter of the weight of the flesh ; a fat ox has from twenty to twenty-five parts of fat upon forty parts of pure muscular tissue, or more than half the weight of the flesh ; a fat sheep has more fat (thirty-two) than flesh (thirty) ; a fat hog similarly will show fat to muscle as forty to thirty-seven. , Of fish, salmon, eels, and sprats are distinguished by much j fat ; cod, turbot, sole, by the minimum of fat as compared to flesh ; the liver of the cod, on the other hand, is very rich in fat. The large marine mammals, such as whales, are reservoirs of enormous masses of fat, and this becomes the cause of their gradual extinction by man’s hands. A chicken or pheasant may be fattened up so as to contain 10 per cent, of fat ; partridges never have more than,, and seldom as much as, per cent, of fat. Geese, by cramming, can be made to accumulate considerable masses of fat under their skin, in the abdominal cavity, and in the liver. Note on the History of Researches concerning Gelatine and its Use for Food, and of the Romance of the Bouillon d’Os. The earliest scientific note on gelatine occurs in D. Papin’s work.* He obtained gelatine by boiling bones in his digester, i.e., under pressure, and therefore under higher temperatures than that of boiling water ; when the heat was too great the gelatine was weaker, and, as he believed, Papin, Denys, ‘ The Manner of softening Bones and cooking all Sorts of Meat in a Short Time, and at little Cost.’ 1682. less nourishing. He obtained gelatine from the jack (fish), but not from the mackerel. Cartilage was dissolved almost entirely, and yielded a strong gelatine. The name gelatina was first employed by Spielmann, in 1766, in his chemical essays,* and in French by Eoussille Chamseru.t The English physician Bostock was the first to estimate the quantity of gelatine required to make water gelatinize ; he found the minimum to be 1 per cent.

The spirit of cookery