Now let us compare with these processes for the prepara-
tion of pure genuine bouillon, or meat-extract, the prepara-
tion of stock as commonly understood and practised in even
BOUILLON, OR MEAT-BROTH✪ Bouillon or Meat-Broth ir?
the highest-class kitchens. The materials are gravy-beef,
leg of beef, shoulder of beef, or gravy-piece, leg of (white)
veal, and knuckle cff veal. The proportions of beef to veal
are given by Francatelli as two parts leg of veal to two
parts gravy-beef, to one part leg of beef and one part knuckle
of veal. Of the leg of veal, all that part is removed which
is called the nut [noix) or fricandecm ineces, and serves for
removes or entrees. All the rest of the meat is cut off the
bones, the beef is kept separate from the veal; but the
bones, both of beef and veal, ai'e thrown into the stock-pot
together with the beef, covered with three times their volume
of cold water (a quantity which could only be guessed at),
and hoilecl for seven hours. We pass over the skimming
(removal of scum) and the garnishings, which latter, though
added later, must become greatly deteriorated in effect by
such long boiling. The knuckle of veal and a portion of
the residual veal from the leg are to be boiled by themselves
for veal-hroth ; most of the veal not used for the entrees is
to be used for frying in the preparation of the sauces ; it
therefore serves the purposes of broth or gravy, but is never
brought into the actual shape or condition of it.
Boiling Bones and Production of Gelatine.
Now, whether the parts above taken as units for com-
parison be practically pounds, stones, or half - hundred-
weights, in any case at least one quarter of the weight of
the joints would be hone; much would be ligaments and
tendons, much fat, a little more than half would remain as
actual meat, mostly beef ; or the bones would weigh nearly
as much as half the meat. And these hones, broken in
pieces, are to he boiled for seven hours. We know exactly
the result of boiling bones under such circumstances ; they
lose nothing in weight, yield nothing to water, the result is
nil; all the trouble, time, space, tire, etc., are absolutely
wasted. So far, therefore, as the bare bones are concerned.
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
ii8
their presence does not affect the decoction advantageously,
but may easily deteriorate it. But, then, what is boiled are
not bare bones, but bones with connecting joints, cartilages,
ligaments, tendons, and some gristle. Now, all these parts
just enumerated consist of collagenon,s or glue-forming tissue
(the cartilages are peculiar, and yield but little soluble matter
in culinary operations except after long boiling). And,
indeed, all they yield to the decoction is gelatine or glue.
This, being perfecthj tasteless, contributes nothing of a flavour
even ; its nutritive value, owing to its limited amount, is very
small, and does not nearly equal the cost of the coal spent
in its solution. Supposing the stock ultimately obtained
were to set, i.e., to gelatinize well on cooling, the quantity of
gelatine dissolved might be estimated to amount to an ounce
(in the dry state) per quart, rather less than more. A
portion of this gelatine would be obtained from the con-
nective-tissue of the meat, beef as well as veal, but the
latter would yield it easier, quicker, and in a greater relative
quantity.
Page 84 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Now let us compare with these processes for the preparation of pure genuine bouillon, or meat-extract, the preparation of stock as commonly understood and practised in even
the highest-class kitchens. The materials are gravy-beef, leg of beef, shoulder of beef, or gravy-piece, leg of (white) veal, and knuckle of veal. The proportions of beef to veal are given by Francatelli as two parts leg of veal to two parts gravy-beef, to one part leg of beef and one part knuckle of veal. Of the leg of veal, all that part is removed which is called the nut [noix) or fricandecm ineces, and serves for removes or entrees. All the rest of the meat is cut off the bones, the beef is kept separate from the veal; but the bones, both of beef and veal, are thrown into the stock-pot together with the beef, covered with three times their volume of cold water (a quantity which could only be guessed at), and hoilecl for seven hours. We pass over the skimming (removal of scum) and the garnishings, which latter, though added later, must become greatly deteriorated in effect by such long boiling. The knuckle of veal and a portion of the residual veal from the leg are to be boiled by themselves for veal-hroth ; most of the veal not used for the entrees is to be used for frying in the preparation of the sauces ; it therefore serves the purposes of broth or gravy, but is never brought into the actual shape or condition of it.
Boiling Bones and Production of Gelatine.
Now, whether the parts above taken as units for comparison be practically pounds, stones, or half - hundredweights, in any case at least one quarter of the weight of the joints would be bone; much would be ligaments and tendons, much fat, a little more than half would remain as actual meat, mostly beef ; or the bones would weigh nearly as much as half the meat. And these hones, broken in pieces, are to he boiled for seven hours. We know exactly the result of boiling bones under such circumstances ; they lose nothing in weight, yield nothing to water, the result is nil; all the trouble, time, space, tire, etc., are absolutely wasted. So far, therefore, as the bare bones are concerned.
their presence does not affect the decoction advantageously, but may easily deteriorate it. But, then, what is boiled are not bare bones, but bones with connecting joints, cartilages, ligaments, tendons, and some gristle. Now, all these parts just enumerated consist of collagenon,s or glue-forming tissue (the cartilages are peculiar, and yield but little soluble matter in culinary operations except after long boiling). And, indeed, all they yield to the decoction is gelatine or glue. This, being perfectly tasteless, contributes nothing of a flavour even ; its nutritive value, owing to its limited amount, is very small, and does not nearly equal the cost of the coal spent in its solution. Supposing the stock ultimately obtained were to set, i.e., to gelatinize well on cooling, the quantity of gelatine dissolved might be estimated to amount to an ounce (in the dry state) per quart, rather less than more. A portion of this gelatine would be obtained from the connective-tissue of the meat, beef as well as veal, but the latter would yield it easier, quicker, and in a greater relative quantity.
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Bouillon or Meat-Broth